San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland Places

Zacatecas

Although Zacatecas, nestled high up at 8,000 feet, was once the world's largest silver-producing city, it's relatively undiscovered by foreigners. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, this extraordinary town is often labeled the "pink city," since most of its 17th- and 18th-century buildings were built of local pink limestone.

As a state capital with a population of 150,000, Zacatecas toes the line between city and small town. There are some good restaurants and museums, and nightlife includes partying in an old silver mine deep beneath the ground. Each year during the Festival Cultural de Zacatecas, the city comes alive with dance, theater, music, and art.

Most town-center attractions are accessible by foot, although you may want a taxi to visit farther-flung sights like the Cerro de la Bufa, a dramatic limestone outcropping visible from most strategic points in town. There's an efficient and inexpensive bus system with clearly marked buses and 30¢ rides. The city's principal avenues such as López Velarde and González Ortega often change names as they proceed through the town and the traffic is divided by islands decorated with carved limestone vases and lampposts, occasional statues, and ornate fountains.

We suggest you get your bearings first on the Tranvía Turístico, a trolleybus that departs daily from 9 to 9 in front of the cathedral. The 40-minute tour costs $3.

Local Brew

Next to Casa Valadez, the popular restaurant opposite the Teatro Juárez, you will find Casa Maximiliano; they sell pretty, blue bottles of local tequila from Pénjamo that make great gifts.