Folk-art lovers are drawn to this "house of happy spirits" for its collection of crafts. Owned by a California artist and textile collector, the lovingly restored hacienda (circa 1700) has thick stone walls and serene, almost jungle-like grounds covered with bougainvillea and calla lilies. Hand-glazed-tile baths, fireplaces, and private terraces are standard with each room, but otherwise, all rooms are unique. Marfil is a 15-minute drive from the center of town—frequent buses are available. Taxi drivers may be unfamiliar with the hotel, so come prepared with directions.