Islam

Islam and Muhammad

Islam is an Abrahamic religion—one of the three largest (and somewhat interrelated) monotheistic religions in the world. The prophet Muhammad is believed to be descended from Ishmael, son of Abraham, through a union with his wife Sarah's handmaiden, Hagar. Abraham also sired Isaac, who was one of the patriarchs of Judaism and Christianity. Thus, many of the prominent figures in Judaism and Christianity—Adam, Moses, and Jesus—are also revered as prophets in Islam.

Muhammad was born in Mecca on the Arabian Peninsula (near the Red Sea in present-day Saudi Arabia). He became a religious figure in 610 AD when, according to Islamic tradition, while meditating in solitude he began to receive visions from the angel Gabriel. The words of these visitations became the shuras (verses) of the Koran, the holy book of Islam. When Muhammad first began preaching the new religion he was met with hostility by pagan tribesmen and forced to flee to Medina (also in Saudi Arabia) in 622 AD.

After converting the people of Medina to Islam, Muhammad returned to Mecca and converted his hometown, and by the end of the 6th century, Islam was the dominant religion in Arabia. In the subsequent centuries Muslim armies would sweep across North Africa and into Spain, throughout the Levant and eastward into Central Asia and Persia. Turkic peoples were converted to Islam sometime during their journey across Asia, and when the Seljuks swept through Byzantine territory in Asia Minor, they brought Islam with them. After the rise of the Ottoman Empire, Muslims crossed the Dardanelles into Eastern Europe, where the Turks conquered as far as Vienna. Today there are 1.6 billion Muslims throughout the world.

Islam Today

Islam is a comprehensive religion and its tenets touch all aspects of life. Devout Muslims pray five times a day: at sunrise, midday, in the afternoon, at sunset, and in the early evening—exact times are determined by the sun's passage. One of the first things visitors to Istanbul notice is the sound of the call to prayer—called the ezan—wafting from the minarets of local mosques. The focal point of Muslim prayer is the Sacred Mosque in Mecca, at the center of which is the Kabaa, a shrine said to have been built by Abraham and rebuilt by Muhammad. One duty of able-bodied Muslims is to make the pilgrimage, or hajj, to Mecca at least once in their lifetime.

Many modern Turks have a relaxed approach to their religion. Some drink alcohol and many smoke cigarettes—both of which are forbidden by strict interpretations of Islam. They typically don't, however, eat pork. While the Koran expressly forbids eating all carnivores and omnivores, pigs are especially abhorrent. Turkish men can be shameless flirts and modern women often dress in contemporary and revealing couture, though such behavior is not in keeping with Islamic ideas of modesty. There are, however, a great many conservative folks, too, and in modern Turkey, the role of religion in society is hotly debated as the political old guard fights with the young, often more religious majority, over Atatürk's definition of secularism.

Islam and Art

Turkey enjoys a proud tradition of contributing to Islamic art. Ottoman mosque architecture incorporated many of the Byzantine design elements that Mehmet II's armies found in Constantinople. Ottoman mosques with their spacious courtyards and mammoth domes, notably the Sultan Ahmet Camii, are essentially variations on Aya Sofya. Ottoman art also boasts some of the most elaborate and colorful tile designs in the world. The best Ottoman tiles were created in İznik during the 16th and 17th centuries and sport dazzling geometric and floral designs, which adhere to the Islamic prohibition on depicting human figures. This ban (which scholars believe inspired the iconoclastic period during which the Byzantines actually destroyed their own icons), came out of a desire to discourage idolatry. When Mehmet II conquered Istanbul, the first things to go were the mosaics and frescoes. He recognized, however, that the Christian images were works of art created by talented artists and, rather than having the images scratched out, he merely had them painted over. The Sultan's foresight has allowed restorers to uncover many of the Byzantine images that adorned the walls of the city's churches before 1453.

Ramadan

The Islamic holy month of Ramadan, called "Ramazan" in Turkish, lasts for 30 days and is an especially pious time. During it, observant Muslims abstain from eating, drinking, smoking, and sexual relations, from dawn to sunset; this self-denial teaches restraint and humility and is meant to bring one closer to God. Those who are fasting start each day with a predawn meal called sahur. At sundown, the fast is broken with a meal called iftar, which traditionally includes dates, soup and bread, olives, and other foods. Many restaurants offer special iftar fixed menus during Ramadan. In small towns and conservative parts of Turkey it may be hard to find restaurants open during the day during Ramadan, but in most cities and tourist areas it's not an issue. Though it's understood that non-Muslims will not be fasting, it's respectful to avoid eating in public (such as on the street or on public transportation) during Ramadan. You should also be prepared for the fact that in many places, even touristy areas like Sultanahmet in Istanbul, it's customary for drummers to walk around in the wee hours of the morning to wake people for the sahur—which can make for a rather startling, and early, awakening. The end of Ramadan is celebrated with a three-day holiday called Ramazan Bayramı or Şeker Bayramı ("sugar holiday"), during which people visit family and friends and plentifully consume sweets.

Another festival, Kurban Bayramı (feast of the sacrifice), requires Muslims to sacrifice an animal—typically a sheep or a cow—for their faith, honoring Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his firstborn son to God and God's last-minute substitution of a ram for the boy. Today, many Turks purchase vouchers that empower a professional butcher to make the kill in their name. Ramazan Bayramı and Kurban Bayramı are national holidays, and schools and many businesses are closed for the duration; museums and other attractions generally close only for the first day of the holiday.

Mosque Etiquette

The Turks are quite lenient about tourists visiting mosques and most are open to the public during the day, but there are some rules of etiquette. It's best not to enter a mosque during the five daily prayer sessions, especially at midday on Friday, when attendances are higher; it's also considered offensive for a non-Muslin to sit down in a mosque. Immodest clothing is not allowed but an attendant by the door will lend you a robe if he feels you aren't dressed appropriately. For women, bare arms and legs aren't acceptable, and men should avoid wearing shorts. Women should cover their heads before entering a mosque.

Shoes must be removed before entering a mosque; there's usually an attendant who watches over them, or you can put them in your backpack or handbag, or use the plastic bags often provided near the entrance. Don't take photographs inside the mosque, particularly of people praying, and it's advisable to show respect by talking only in whispers.

A small donation is usually requested for the upkeep of the mosque. The equivalent of about $3 is appropriate.