On your way to or from Italy, consider a visit to this beautiful stone grotto-house. With lush flowers pouring out of its window boxes, it's straight out of a fairy tale. The rooms inside cast their spell; they are cozily crammed with all manner of charm—carriage-wheel lamps, mounted animals, small spots to relax by a fireplace. Enjoy the rosemary-infused wine on the terrace, followed by brasato (beef shoulder) with polenta and the daring dolce sorpresa
(surprise dessert). On Tuesday night the four-course meal accompanied by Ticinese musicians is a good deal. The restaurant is a 15-minute walk from the train station in Intragna, 9 km (5 miles) northwest of Ascona.