Now that the oldest of the city's castles has been renovated, its chic, modern restaurant merits a visit. Don't expect a quick cafeteria lunch served to shorts-clad tourists: this is a serious experience, with daringly cool, postmodern decor and sophisticated efforts from the Italian chef, including fried shrimp tails in a butternut squash and coconut sauce, or smoked lamb served with mint-infused couscous. The wine list has more than 70 Ticino Merlots. Downstairs, there's
a lighter atmosphere at the more casual Grotto restaurant. Its stunning summer terrace is a great spot to soak up views and sunshine.