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This is Spain’s authentic heartland, bereft of touristy hamburger joints and filled instead with the country’s most traditional tavernas, which attract Spanish foodies from across the country. Some of the most renowned restaurants in this region are small and family-run, while a few new avant-garde spots in Extremadura serve up modern architecture as well as experimental fusion dishes.
Beginning life as an inn in the 18th century, Cándido was declared a national monument in 1941, and today displays photos of famous patrons including Ernest Hemingway, Salvador Dalí, and Princess Grace. The cochinillo is the star; partridge stew and roast lamb are also memorable, especially on cold afternoons. Ask for a table overlooking the aqueduct, just a few feet away, and be sure to book ahead.
Jeta—crackly, juicy fried pig snout sliced into bite-size pieces—is the raison d'être of this locals-oriented gem 1½ km (1 mile) north of the city center. Pair it with an ice-cold beer, and you've got the perfect aperitivo or late-night snack—for under €5.
This local hangout serves Astorgan dishes that incorporate wild game, foraged mushrooms, and regional meats. For a break from carnivorous Castilian cuisine, tuck into house-made pasta dishes or chickpeas stewed with fresh octopus, a house specialty.
Despite its Mediterranean name, this traditional family-run restaurant serves up Castilian specialties like garlic soup, partridge salad, local river trout, white asparagus, and suckling lamb. The tiny front bar is decorated with black-and-white photos of local bullfighters and is usually packed with locals (as is the back room). The most privileged place to dine is under the awnings on the square.
Botero's old-school storefront draws diners into its cozy but lively tapas bar, with a solid cocktail program and global takes on the traditional, like crispy pig ear tacos with ginger and pickles. The upstairs dining room offers an extended menu and larger dishes, along with two seasonal tasting menus.
The city's traditional smoky pork and pea stew, carcamusas, is a serious showstopper at this no-frills joint. Amongst the fried and boiled pig parts, also don't miss the calentitos—these perfectly fried mushrooms are served on crispy toast and slathered in a garlicky salsa verde.
Rest your legs at this Arabian-style tea house–bar appointed with plush couches, low tables, and colorful tapestries. Sample specially blended teas incorporating flowers, dried fruit, and spices. Fruit smoothies, crepes, and sandwiches make yummy snacks.
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