Edinburgh and the Lothians Restaurants

Edinburgh's eclectic restaurant scene has attracted a brigade of well-known chefs, including the award-winning trio of Martin Wishart, Tom Kitchin, and Paul Kitching. They and dozens of others have abandoned the tried-and-true recipes for more adventurous cuisine. Of course, you can always find traditional fare, which usually means the Scottish-French style that harks back to the historical "Auld Alliance" of the 13th century. The Scottish element is the preference for fresh and local foodstuffs; the French supply the sauces. In Edinburgh, you can sample anything from Malaysian rendang (a thick, coconut-milk stew) to Kurdish kebabs, while the long-established French, Italian, Chinese, Pakistani, and Indian communities ensure that the majority of the globe's most treasured cuisines are well represented.

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  • 1. Cannonball Restaurant

    $$$

    The name refers to one of the most delightful quirks of Edinburgh's Old Town—the cannonball embedded in the wall outside, said to have been fired at the castle while Bonnie Prince Charlie was in residence (not true, but a good story). The atmosphere in this three-story restaurant and whisky bar is casual and relaxed, despite the gorgeous art deco dining room with views of the castle esplanade. Victor and Carina Contini, whose unique brand of Italian-Scottish cuisine has been drawing crowds for more than a decade, preside over all. The inventive menus change seasonally, but perennial favorites include the bread-crumbed haggis "cannonballs" and the lobster thermidor macaroni and cheese.

    356 Castlehill, Edinburgh, EH1 2NF, Scotland
    0131-225–1550

    Known For

    • Scrumptious Italian-Scottish cuisine
    • Great views of the castle
    • Bread-crumbed haggis cannonballs

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.
  • 2. Lovecrumbs

    $

    A bakery-café with an inordinately sweet tooth, Lovecrumbs joyously, deliciously, and unashamedly focuses on what really matters in life: cake. It serves delectable confections of all kinds, from sumptuous Victoria sponges to heavenly peanut-butter brownies to mouthwatering lemon tarts. You'll find an occasional savory baked good on the menu, but don't count on it. Eat inside with a cup a coffee among the quirky knickknacks, or get your cake to go. The opening times are advertised with the caveat "roughly," but you will know the place by the appreciative crowds at busy times.

    155 W. Port, Edinburgh, EH3 9DP, Scotland
    0131-629–0626

    Known For

    • Extraordinary cakes galore
    • Junk shop-esque decor
    • Large crowds despite unpredictable opening times

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations not accepted
  • 3. Oink

    $

    For a quick, cheap bite while wandering the Royal Mile, you can't beat Oink—possibly the best hog roast (pulled pork) in Edinburgh. Located on Canongate (there are two other outlets, but this one is the best), it was founded by two farmers in 2008, and their high-quality, hand-reared pork has proved a huge hit ever since. The idea is simple: choose your bread, choose your stuffing (try the haggis), and choose your sauce, then watch it all being combined with delicious pulled pork and—on request—salty crackling. There are three sizes available: piglet (80 grams, about 3 ounces), oink (160 grams), and grunter (250 grams).

    82 Canongate, Edinburgh, EH8 8BZ, Scotland
    07584-637416

    Known For

    • Unbelievable pulled pork
    • Great-value lunch
    • No options for vegetarians
  • 4. Timberyard

    $$

    There are few restaurants that feel so wonderfully, well, Edinburgh as this one. The freshest seasonal ingredients, mostly sourced from small local producers, go into creating delicious, inventive fare. The menu is constantly changing, but with pairings like scallop with unripe gooseberry and fig leaf ice cream, you can be sure of some surprises. The dining room, a former Victorian warehouse that's enjoyed a stripped-back, hipster refurbishment, is hugely atmospheric, and the young professional crowds are always lively.

    10 Lady Lawson St., Edinburgh, EH3 9DS, Scotland
    0131-221–1222

    Known For

    • Exciting dishes
    • Hip interior
    • Pricey multicourse menus

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.–Wed. No lunch Thurs., Reservations essential
  • 5. Wedgwood the Restaurant

    $$$

    Rejecting the idea that fine dining should be a stuffy affair, owners Paul Wedgwood and Lisa Channon are in charge at this Royal Mile gem. Local produce and some unusual foraged fronds enliven the taste buds on menus that radically change with the seasons; expect deliciously quirky pairings like scallops in a cauliflower korma or roe deer with buttermilk. The dining space is smart but informal, and the professional staff have mastered the tricky task of giving guests space to relax while always remaining attentive. Consider the three-course lunch deal for £25; that's less than most mains in the evening.

    267 Canongate, Edinburgh, EH8 8BQ, Scotland
    0131-558–8737

    Known For

    • Unfussy fine dining
    • Delicious sticky toffee pudding
    • Great value lunch deals
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  • 6. Civerinos

    $ | Old Town

    With its primary color interiors, blaring 1980s hip-hop soundtrack, and brightly dressed waitstaff, this pizza diner may be Edinburgh's most upbeat dining option yet. Luckily, the food is equally joyful: take your pick from a dozen delicious pizza pies, from meaty feasts to vegan delights, or opt for a tasty pasta or salad instead. The clientele skews young and hip, but the quality of the food means it'll appeal to everyone.

    5 Hunter Sq., Edinburgh, Edinburgh, EH1 1QW, Scotland
    0131-220--0851

    Known For

    • Edinburgh's best pizza pies
    • Mood-liftingly bright decor
    • Bingeable garlic crust bites
  • 7. David Bann

    $

    This hip eatery, situated just off the Royal Mile, serves exclusively vegetarian and vegan favorites, and its inventive dishes and modern interior make it a popular place with young locals. The menu changes constantly, but the invariably creative, flavorful dishes often leave carnivores forgetting they're eating vegetarian. The food is very affordable, and there's free water with mint and strawberries. You may need to book in advance during the summer.

    56–58 St. Mary's St., Edinburgh, EH1 1SX, Scotland
    0131-556–5888

    Known For

    • Superb vegetarian and vegan cuisine
    • Very affordable
    • Lovely setting
  • 8. Hanam's

    $

    Kurdish food may not be as well known as other Middle Eastern cuisines, but dishes like bayengaan surocrau (marinated slow-roasted eggplant) and lamb tashreeb (a flavorful casserole) are worth checking out. Hanam's proudly promotes Kurdish cuisine, but also serves more familiar and equally delicious Middle Eastern fare, from shish kebabs to falafel. The deep-red interiors have a relaxed vibe, and you can bring your own alcohol. It's also possible to smoke a hookah pipe on the heated terrace.

    3 Johnston Terr., Edinburgh, EH1 2PW, Scotland
    0131-225–1329

    Known For

    • Traditional Kurdish cooking
    • BYOB policy
    • Hookah on heated terrace
  • 9. La Garrigue

    $$$

    Edinburgh is blessed with several excellent French bistros, and this is one of the best. Although the modern decor evokes Paris, the food has the rustic flavor of the southern Languedoc region. The à la carte and prix-fixe menus are full of Languedoc classics like cassoulet (a rich, slow-cooked casserole with Toulouse sausage) alongside dishes that use fresh Scottish ingredients. Try the deliciously floral lavender crème brûlée for dessert—a surprisingly light finale to a heady dining experience.

    31 Jeffrey St., Edinburgh, EH1 1DH, Scotland
    0131-557–3032

    Known For

    • Rustic French cuisine
    • Attentive service
    • Colorful crockery

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.
  • 10. Ondine

    $$$$

    This fabulous seafood restaurant just off the Royal Mile makes waves with its expertly prepared dishes from sustainable fishing sources. The menu is populated with Scottish seafood staples, from salmon and sea bream to lobster and langoustines, but these are often served in interesting and surprising ways. A wall of windows shines bountiful amounts of sunlight on an attractive monochromatic dining room and an art deco oyster bar. The location is perfect for a walk-in lunch during the week, but you may need to book in advance for evenings and weekends.

    2 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh, EH1 1AD, Scotland
    0131-226–1888

    Known For

    • Best oysters in Edinburgh
    • Delicious fish dishes
    • Lavish decor

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon., Reservations essential

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