Edinburgh and the Lothians Restaurants

Edinburgh's eclectic restaurant scene has attracted a brigade of well-known chefs, including the award-winning trio of Martin Wishart, Tom Kitchin, and Paul Kitching. They and dozens of others have abandoned the tried-and-true recipes for more adventurous cuisine. Of course, you can always find traditional fare, which usually means the Scottish-French style that harks back to the historical "Auld Alliance" of the 13th century. The Scottish element is the preference for fresh and local foodstuffs; the French supply the sauces. In Edinburgh, you can sample anything from Malaysian rendang (a thick, coconut-milk stew) to Kurdish kebabs, while the long-established French, Italian, Chinese, Pakistani, and Indian communities ensure that the majority of the globe's most treasured cuisines are well represented.

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  • 1. Baba

    $$$

    Set within the upmarket Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel, Baba serves tasty Middle Eastern—specifically Levantine—fare in a colorful, shabby-chic setting. Dishes are designed for sharing so take your pick from the mezze and grills menu, where highlights include the baba ghanoush (with pomegranate seed and mint) and the beef and bone marrow kofte. It's tempting to fill up on warm pita bread, but try to save space for a cardamom panna cotta dessert. Individual dishes aren't extravagant, but it's surprisingly easy to rack up a sizeable bill.

    130 George St., Edinburgh, EH2 4JZ, Scotland
    0131-527--4999

    Known For

    • Costs that quickly add up
    • Delicious hummus with a zhug (Yemeni hot sauce) kick
    • Inventive takes on Middle Eastern staples
  • 2. Hanam's

    $

    Kurdish food may not be as well known as other Middle Eastern cuisines, but dishes like bayengaan surocrau (marinated slow-roasted eggplant) and lamb tashreeb (a flavorful casserole) are worth checking out. Hanam's proudly promotes Kurdish cuisine, but also serves more familiar and equally delicious Middle Eastern fare, from shish kebabs to falafel. The deep-red interiors have a relaxed vibe, and you can bring your own alcohol. It's also possible to smoke a hookah pipe on the heated terrace.

    3 Johnston Terr., Edinburgh, EH1 2PW, Scotland
    0131-225–1329

    Known For

    • Traditional Kurdish cooking
    • BYOB policy
    • Hookah on heated terrace
  • Recommended Fodor’s Video

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