Fodor's Expert Review A Cozinha Velha

It's best to come hungry to this rustic eatery across the Lima River, famed for its starters, such as rissóis de leitão (suckling pig rissoles) and orelha de porco (pig's ear), as well as main dishes like cabrito assado (kid roasted in a wood oven) and bacalhau with a corn bread crust. The stone-walled dining room is dominated by a massive fireplace that keeps the place warm on chilly evenings; in summer there's a pleasant shaded terrace. Servings are huge, so when dining alone don't be shy to ask for a half (meia dose). Don't miss their pudim de Abade de Priscos, an ultra-rich crème caramel pudding.