North from Ribeira Brava the N104 snakes through a sheer-sided canyon. In every direction you can see high waterfalls tumbling down canyon walls and into a pine forest. Avoid the new road tunnel and keep to the old road that heads up via the village of Serra de Água, an ideal starting point for a trek into Madeira's interior. Even if you don't plan to hike, consider spending the night here at the stone pousada, surrounded by moss-green rocks, ferns, and more waterfalls.
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