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In the capital, as in the rest of the grand duchy, workers drop everything at noon and, jamming the streets, rush home to a leisurely hot meal, then rush back at 2, jamming the streets once more. Most restaurants offer a relatively speedy plat du jour for those who don't commute twice a day. Evening meals at home tend to be a cold supper of ham, sausage, dark bread, and cheese; the occasional meal out is usually a celebration, enjoyed at length. The Sunday noon meal is the most important of the week. Some Luxembourg restaurants are closed on Sunday and/or Monday, but country restaurants—some of the best and most enjoyable in the country, and never very far away—are booked with three-generation families, who spend the afternoon eating and drinking, then take a stroll, after which the men retire to the local pub.
Luxembourg City has a wide variety of restaurants, offering everything from top French cuisine to simple local specialties; you'll also find an assortment of international choices, a plethora of pizzerias, and for some reason, lots of Chinese restaurants. It's easy to find a fixed-price menu or plat du jour by wandering from restaurant to restaurant, but beware: the best places are often booked up at weekday lunchtime; if you know where you want to eat, phone ahead. Dress is casual unless otherwise indicated.
This Italian pizzeria attracts an upscale, downtown set as much for its location in the historic center and its slick peach-and-brass decor as for its food, which is straightforward and reasonably priced. Wood-fired pizza and classic pastas are dependable choices. Reserve a seat in the tranquil courtyard, especially for lunch when this is a haunt for members of parliament.
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