Sleek, soigné, and swank, this hotel is definitely a diamond in the rough—the rough being its immediate neighborhood, a bit far from the tourist or historic quarters. Happily, this problem has been solved by the hotel's shuttle bus and other enticements. Set in the majestic palace of the very majestic Caracciolos (one of the most gilded names in Neapolitan history), the hotel is across the street from the "family" church, San Giovanni a Carbonara, where the multitude
of worshipping Carracciolo princes, warriors, lovers, and cardinals resulted in two spectacular Renaissance-era chapels. Though the palace dates from the 14th century, this lodging has been refurbished for 21st-century visitors with red sofas, Gio Ponti–inspired ornaments, burnished black globes, and artworks that mirror Lucio Fontana minimal masterpieces. Done up in silvers and taupes, the guest rooms are cool and contemporary, and they all have thick piperno walls to buffer the din from the noisiest motorcycles, of which there are more than a few in this district.