With its long wooden tables, hard-back booths, and free-flowing beer, this casual restaurant seems to belong more to the genre of Munich beer hall than popular Roman hangout. But let's remember that to the north, way north, of Rome, lies a part of Italy in which the people speak as much German as they do Italian, where the wines they drink are Reislings and Gewurtztraminer, and the simple food seems more tedesco than italiano. It's from this place that Birreria Peroni draws its inspiration, and the goulash or the many sausage specialties -- with sauerkraut and potatoes, of course -- certainly provide a nice respite from pasta and tomato sauce. The place gets packed at lunch with nearby office workers and members of Parliament, but dinnertime is more relaxed.
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