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An old standby in the residential area near the Vatican known as Prati, Cesare is a willing slave to tradition. The refrigerated display of fresh fish of the day is a tip-off of what's on offer. Classic fish dishes, such as fresh marinated anchovies and sardines, and mixed seafood salad dressed in a lemon citronette, quell those seafood cravings. Homemade pasta with meat sauce is the primo to get, and saltimbocca (thinly sliced veal with prosciutto and sage) or the thick Florentine steaks are the ultimate meat-lover's dishes. As with any other traditional Roman restaurant, gnocchi are served on Thursday and pasta with chickpeas on Friday. Also try the €38 "menu toscano"—a great, multicourse value. The look of the place is quite clubby, and the menu's tendency toward stick-to-the-ribs comfort food make it a great place to go in the autumn and winter, when the cooler weather ushers in dishes featuring truffles, game, and heartier fare.
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