Naples and Campania: Places to Explore



When John Steinbeck lived here in 1953, he wrote that it was difficult to consider tourism an industry because "there are not enough tourists." It's safe to say that Positano, a village of white Moorish-style houses clinging to slopes around a small sheltered bay, has since been discovered. Another Steinbeck observation still applies, however: "Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn't quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone. … The small curving bay of unbelievably blue and green water laps gently on a beach of small pebbles. There is only one narrow street, and it does not come down to the water. Everything else is stairs, some of them as steep as ladders. You do not walk to visit a friend, you either climb or slide."

In the 10th century Positano was part of Amalfi's maritime republic, which rivaled Venice as an important mercantile power. During its 16th-and-17th-century heyday, its ships traded in the Near and Middle East carrying spices, silks, and precious woods. But the coming of the steamship in the mid-19th century led to the town's decline and some three-fourths of its 8,000 citizens emigrated to America.

What had been reduced to a forgotten fishing village is now the number-one attraction on the coast. From here you can take hydrofoils to Capri in summer, escorted bus rides to Ravello, and tours of the Grotta dello Smeraldo. If you're staying in Positano, check whether your hotel has a parking area. If not, you'll have to pay for space in a lot, which is almost impossible to find during the high season, from Easter to September. The best bet for day-trippers is to arrive by bus—there's a regular, if crowded, service from Sorrento—or else get to Positano early enough to find an overpriced parking space.

No matter how much time you spend here, make sure you have some comfortable walking shoes (no heels) and that your back and legs are strong enough to negotiate those daunting scalinatelle (little stairways). Alternatively, you can ride the municipal bus, which frequently plies along the one-and-only-one-way Via Pasitea: a hairpin road running from Positano's central Piazza dei Mulini to the mountains and back, making a loop through the town every half hour. Heading down from the Sponda bus stop toward the beach, you pass Le Sirenuse, the hotel where Steinbeck stayed in 1953. Its stepped terraces offer vistas over the town, so you might splurge on lunch or a drink on the pool terrace, a favorite gathering place for Modigliani-sleek jet-setters.

Elsewhere in Amalfi Coast