Fodor's Expert Review Passalacqua

Count Andrea Lucini Passalacqua and his family hosted artists and politicians at their 5-acre lakefront summer villa in Moltrasio, just north of Cernobbio, until the count's death in 1890 (a 2,700-square-foot suite with an opulent music room was reserved for Vincenzo Bellini while he composed operas—today, the aptly named Bellini and 23 other suites at Passalacqua have restored frescoes, Murano glass chandeliers, and luxurious soaking tub. Passalacqua is the De Santis family's latest luxury hideaway, in the vein of its sister resort, Grand Hotel Tremezzo. A tennis court, pool festooned with orange-and-white striped cushioned chairs and umbrellas, 15 fountains, and staff in ascots add to the atmosphere of a bygone era. Cocktails with garden-fresh herbs (such as a Lavender Gin Sour and Rose Petal Martini), are served in a cozy fire-lit bar, with a ceiling adorned in the Lucini family's coat of arms of three pikes, which is also the insignia on brass key chains, stationery, and embroidered robes. In the on-site restaurant, black-tied waitstaff present regional dishes such as perch and veal shank with Milanese risotto, all inspired by 19th-century botany books and served on Ginori 1735 porcelain.