Ebullient host Ermes Rinaldi greets you as you walk in and seats you wherever he happens to have room—no matter that you might be put with people you don't know. It's part of the fun, as this quasi-communal style of lunching encourages conviviality. In the kitchen, Bruna, Ermes's wife, turns out splendid versions of cucina casalinga modenesi (home cooking, Modena style). Ermes recites the short list of primi and secondi, which change daily and arrive promptly. The accompanying wine is local, simple, and inexpensive: most stick to Lambrusco. So it's no wonder this place is favored by everyone from suits to construction workers to students.
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