Ballymaloe is world famous as the fountainhead of the New Irish Cuisine. Originally a farmhouse and family home, albeit on a gracious scale, Ballymaloe still functions partly as a working farm, one reason why the grounds—pleasant lawns, "which way home?" paths, and vegetable gardens—don't aspire to grandeur. Inside, past the doorway's demilune window, guests like to gather in the drawing room, a symphony of whites and beiges, with fine modern Irish paintings on the walls. A bigger dose of country charm can be found in some guest rooms (notably the ones cocooned in floral wallpapers). Nearly every corner of the Georgian manor (added on to a Norman tower house) is used, down to the charming "stable" bedrooms on the first floor and the tiny, ivy-covered gatekeeper's cottage—perhaps the cutest accommodation in all Ireland. Newer, more spacious rooms downstairs have direct access to the pool and tennis court, and to views of the river and the garden's abundant birdlife. This arcadia has been overseen by three generations of the Allen family, and their loyal staff have the knack of making a guest feel like a cosseted member of the family. Pros: top restaurant; child-friendly family atmosphere; great wholesome food; quiet rural location near sandy beach. Cons: advance booking essential; village and beach driving, not walking, distance.
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