Polished antique tables, a large stone chimney, and bay windows lend considerable charm to the open-plan ground floor of this double-fronted town house. Lunches are light and strong on salads. At dinner, owner-chef Olivier Queva's classical French background is evident in his treatment of the daily catch, including fresh grilled lobster in the summer, and clever ways with unusual cuts of meat. In winter, the catch of the day is replaced by game: quail, pheasant, wild duck, or venison. The wine list is long and includes a good selection of French and New World wines to complement serious and well-judged cuisine.