The food may be costly, but Ta Nissia doesn't seem overpriced thanks to the quality of ingredients and careful preparation by owner-chef Yiannis Alexiou. You're in the city here, but the lightness and decor of this place may make you feel as if you've been transported to some Cycladic isle. Dishes here can be exquisite: taste sensations include squid stuffed with cheese and herbs, veal with smoked eggplant puree, and artichokes in saffron sauce. On the extensive wine list,
check out the very pleasing house rosé.