Across the square from the central railway station is this stately building with the calling card "Grand Hotel" arching over its entranceway. The spacious and imposing lobby with marble pillars feels grand and welcoming. Since 1896, kings, politicians, and celebrities have soaked up the luxury of large rooms and tubs in marble bathrooms. On Friday and Saturday evenings and on Sunday at noon, locals arrive for the candlelight dinner or exquisite brunch ($$$) with live piano music in the restaurant of glittering glass and marble. The trout is a standout in an impressive list of fish dishes, and the lamb is a good pick from the meat entrées. Be sure to ask for weekend rates.