The village of Chambord is as tiny as its château is massive. Its leading landmark is this historic hotel, a revamped hunting lodge set across the lawn from the château. Guest rooms once boasted fabled views of the palace, but towering oak trees now block the view from all but two—room No. 5 has the best view. No matter—this is a most enjoyable hotel, with a cozy lobby, solidly bourgeois guest rooms, and a 19th-century-flavored restaurant. Adorned with mounted deer heads, majolica serving platters, and thick curtains, this room is straight out of a Flaubert novel. The fare is local, hearty (including deer pâté, pumpkin soup, and game in fall), attractively priced (especially the EUR 21 menu), and there's a delightfully leafy terrace café facing the château. Pros: wondrous location opposite Chambord; impressive, good-value restaurant. Cons: little village has some garish tourist shops; creeky hallways, lugubrious lobby. Florence (reception)
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