A revamped hunting lodge right out of the pages of a Flaubert novel grandly sits across the lawn from Chambord's fabled château. Its lobby is cozy and its guest rooms solidly bourgeois if slightly outdated; they once boasted fabled views of the palace, but towering oak trees now block it from all but two—Room No. 5 has the best view. A 19th-century-flavored restaurant, splendidly set with mounted deer heads, majolica serving platters, and thick curtains, offers hearty
local fare (including deer pâté, pumpkin soup, and game in fall) at attractive prices; there's also a delightfully leafy terrace café facing the château.