Few other hotels so magically distill all the grace, warmth, and elan of la vie de château as does this 15th-century, 100-carat jewel. Once the favored retreat of two kings, François I and Henri IV, today its presiding spirits are only slightly less royal: brother-princes Philippe-Maurice and Louis-Albert de Broglie, scions of one of France's top families (two prime ministers and one Nobel Prize winner, at last count). Louis-Albert is one of Paris's most famed gardeners, who here cultivates 400 types of tomatoes in the château's potager (vegetable garden). It's not surprising, then, to find the three main public salons suavely done up in shades of tomato red, sumptuously offsetting such accents as an immense marble fireplace and large bouquets designed by the prince. You can start your gawking, however, at the park entrance—motorists often stop to drink in the view of the neo-Renaissance castle perched atop its picture-perfect hill. Guest rooms range from the grand—François-Premier is a timber-roof cottage blown up to ballroom dimensions—to more standard-issue, yet always stylish salons (garden-view rooms away from the gravel driveway are best). Cheaper rooms are found in the adjoining 17th-century "stables" fitted out with a gardening shop and a tiny eatery that serves up dazzling salads and confections (lunch only, June-September). What more can you ask? What about an enormous secluded pool—a gift from heaven during hot summer days. Life-changingly gracious, La Bourdaisière makes a truly princely base for exploring the Loire. Pros: exquisite setting; extensive gardens. Cons: rooms lack air-conditioning; rooms in annex somewhat bland. (Olivier (reception)
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