Fodor's Expert Review La Part des Anges

This wineshop with some 300 labels and a few tables and chairs at the back is really about vins naturels—unfiltered, unsulfured wines made by small producers from hand-harvested grapes—but the often-simple food served here also happens to be excellent. Whether you choose a charcuterie or cheese plate or one of the handful of hot dishes (like spaghetti with razor clams or octopus cooked in red wine), you can expect it to be generous and fresh. No corkage fee is charged for wines off the shelf, a rarity for a wine bar. Reservations are advised for Friday and Saturday night. The bilingual owner Olivier has opened a second wine bistro with lots of food, La Mise en Verre, at 17 rue Pastorelli.