A (relatively) low-cost, low-calorie alternative to famed Les Prés d'Eugénie, Michel and Christine Guérard's "Pink House" spa beckons with a renovated, super-stylish 18th-century farmhouse adorned with old paintings, rustic antiques, and Pays Basque handicrafts. It's the kind of retreat that would have delighted Louis XIV's sober Madame de Maintenon, assuming she had wanted to lose weight. This is, indeed, a serious spa, complete with slimming cures and the most stylish relaxation room in France. There's no room service—everyone eats in the main dining room, a two-story, beam-ceiling delight. The kitchen's touch remains an inventive benediction to local produce.