Superchef Alain Ducasse put this country inn—buried in the unspoiled backcountry north of Toulon and just south of Brignoles—back on the map a decade ago. Up the road from the town's royal abbey, this beautifully restored 18th-century bastide (country house)—a dream in ocher-yellow walls, Arles green shutters, and white stone trim—was once part of the convent where future queens of Provence were raised. Guest rooms mix Louis XVI and regional accents; half are split-level with their own gardens, some with views of vineyards, others of a park thick with chestnut and mulberry tress. Beds are enormous—none more so than those of the Charles de Gaulle suite (where the great man once stayed). Wherever you bed down, the scent of fresh thyme and lemon basil waft through the windows from the gardens. Each room is named after an aromatic herb grown in the garden or a famous person who has spent time here. All are spacious, light-filled, simple, and authentic, with a sharp eye for Baroque detail and wonderfully comfortable furnishings. Today, the formidable kitchen is headed up by Chef Benoît Witz, whose seemingly magical creations find a superb balance between taste and texture: velouté of crawfish gently covering a bruschetta topped with tomatoes and garden herbs, or duck breast with polenta and cherries.
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