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Fodor's Paris 2014
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Pierre Gagnaire Review
If you want to venture to the frontier of contemporary luxe cooking—and if money is no object—dinner here is a must. Chef Pierre Gagnaire's work is at once intellectual and poetic, often blending three or four unexpected tastes and textures in a single dish. Just taking in the menu requires concentration (ask the waiters for help), so complex are the multiline descriptions about the dishes' six or seven ingredients. The Grand Dessert, a seven-dessert marathon, will leave you breathless, though it's not as overwhelming as it sounds. The businesslike gray-and-wood dining room feels refreshingly informal, especially at lunch, but it also lacks the grandeur expected at this level. The uninspiring prix-fixe lunch (€115) and occasional ill-judged dishes (Gagnaire is a big risk taker, but also one of France's top chefs) linger as drawbacks, and prices keep shooting skyward, so Pierre Gagnaire is an experience best saved for the financial elite.
- Address: 6 rue de Balzac, 8e Champs-Élysées, Paris, 75008 | Map It
- Phone: 01–58–36–12–50
- Website: www.pierre-gagnaire.com
- Metro Charles-de-Gaulle–Étoile.
- Location: Champs-Élysées
- Reservations essential.
- Credit cards accepted.
- Closed weekends, Aug., and at Christmas.
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