If you want to venture to the frontier of luxe cooking today—and if money is no object—dinner here is a must. Chef Pierre Gagnaire's work is at once intellectual and poetic, often blending three or four unexpected tastes and textures in a single dish. Just taking in the menu requires concentration (ask the waiters for help), so complex are the multiline descriptions about the dishes' six or seven ingredients. The Grand Dessert, a seven-dessert marathon, will leave you breathless, though it's not as overwhelming as it sounds. The businesslike gray-and-wood dining room feels refreshingly informal, especially at lunch, but it also lacks the grandeur expected at this level. The uninspiring prix-fixe lunch (EUR 105) and occasional ill-judged dishes (Gagnaire is a big risk taker, but also one of France's top chefs) linger as drawbacks, and prices keep shooting skyward, so Pierre Gagnaire is an experience best saved for the financial elite.
Reviewed by davidgreen72 from Stockholm, Sweden on 6/30/07
We had to book two months in advance for a table fot two and it was definatly worth it. We chose the tasting menu and as a chef myself, it was excellent and beautifully exicuted...... what an experience!!!!!!! I would definatly go back again....... TRUST ME GO AND ENJOY
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