The lowering of the portcullis every night at midnight is a sure sign that you're in a genuine medieval castle. Across the moat, present-day luxury dominates. Antiques and rich draperies furnish the individually designed bedrooms, and many have lattice windows, beamed ceilings, and curtained four-posters. You can dine (£65 for three courses) in the Queens restaurant, beneath a 12th-century barrel-vaulted ceiling, or amid suits of armor in the Great Room. The hotel is 5 miles north of Arundel.