Ghent and the Leie Restaurants

Ghent has long held a place in the hearts of Belgian gourmands, in part due to the enduring popularity of Gentse waterzooi—a classic Flemish dish of boiled chicken covered in thin strips of leek, carrot, and onion, all swamped in a delicious creamy broth. However, these days the city is causing a very modern stir in the food world thanks to a group of young childhood friends, now chefs, rather cringingly dubbed the "Flemish foodies." Their emergence has turned this old industrial port into something of a culinary destination—the Patershol area is particularly blessed. But away from the glare of Michelin stars, there's still plenty of good, cheap, traditional food to be found, especially of the seafood variety.

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  • 1. D'Oude Schuur

    $$$$

    The reputation of D'Oude Schuur often sees Ghentians make a weekend of their visit just to indulge here. As its name (The Old Barn) suggests, it was once part of a farm, though there’s little rustic about its neat, spare interior. The menu does make the most of the country setting, however, dishing up partridge and pheasant alongside the fussier asides of French cooking. Much of the restaurant's reputation lies in its well-stocked cellar, for which the selection of Burgundy wines is especially celebrated.

    Baarle-Frankrijkstraat 1, Sint-Martins-Latem, Flanders, 9830, Belgium
    09-282–3365

    Known For

    • A fantastic wine cellar of French classics
    • Its country setting, out in the leafy suburbs of the village
    • Some accomplished cooking

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed. and Thurs., Reservations essential
  • 2. Oak

    $$$$

    A fair contender for the best meal in Ghent, Oak more than deserves the Michelin star it bagged in 2018. Chef Marcelo Ballardin worked previously in the lauded Vrijmoed before setting up on his own, and demand is high: with just 24 seats, it's wise to book far in advance. Inside, it's pretty intimate, with Ballardin himself often coming out to greet diners. Dinner is a seven-course menu that changes with the seasons. Small portions come exquisitely prepared, with every trick in the gastronomic cookbook used, and its surprisingly simple dishes are huge in flavor, from sumptuous dry-aged beef to halibut drizzled in Champagne sauce. A true delight.

    Hoogstraat 167, Ghent, Flanders, 9000, Belgium
    09-353--9050

    Known For

    • Exquisitely prepared food in an intimate setting
    • Simple food with massive flavors
    • A good-value lunch menu

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sat.--Mon.
  • 3. Rebelle

    $$$$

    The only downside to Rebelle is that it's not exactly convenient. It lies a few miles outside the city center, in the small village of Marke, but it's more than worth the effort to get there. A minimalist makeover of the interior makes room for its inventive three-, six- and seven-course menus, which bring all the color. Save room for the pandan rice pudding. 

    Rekkemsestraat 226, Kortrijk, Flanders, 8510, Belgium
    056-219--450

    Known For

    • Creative cooking in a slick setting
    • Its three-course menu is decent value at €45
    • Friendly, knowledgeable service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.
  • 4. Roots

    $$$$

    This dinky but stylish offering is found deep amid the winding old back alleys of Patershol. Inside it is all rather minimalist and homely—bare wood, stark tiles, cutlery is found in the table drawers—leaving ample room to soak up the creativity of chef Kim Devisschere. Lunch (€28) and dinner (€55) set menus make the most of his ability to turn simple meat, fish, and some of the lesser seen Flemish vegetables into culinary spectacles. There's only 20 settings, so booking is essential.

    Vrouwebroersstraat 5, 9000, Unknown
    09-310–6773

    Known For

    • Incredibly fresh and delicious vegetables, which dominate each dish
    • Wonderful presentation and a friendly atmosphere
    • Well-hidden setting in the back alleys of Patershol

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed weekends
  • 5. T'Grof Zout

    $$$$

    A seasoned performer. This classy restaurant, run by owners Marniek and Christine, has been dishing up imaginative takes on classic bistro dishes since 1999. A back-garden terrace makes for a quiet escape, while the understated interior sets a refined mood for some sophisticated cooking. 

    Gasthuisstraat 20, Geraardsbergen, Flanders, 9500, Belgium
    054-423--546

    Known For

    • A quiet little oasis within the town
    • Good cooking and a friendly welcome
    • Modern takes on classic dishes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner Sun. No lunch Sat.
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  • 6. Deboeveries

    $$$$

    North Sea sole is the specialty here, fried and served with frites or grilled with a side of dijonnaise. It might not sound like the most sophisticated of dishes, but it is cherished among locals. The rest of the menu veers towards fine steaks, game, and the more rustic cuts often found in fine French cooking, including veal kidneys and crispy sweetbreads with wild mushrooms. The setting is charming, whittled into an old farmstead, and the garden makes for a pleasant retreat during the warmer weather. 

    Lijnstraat 2, Flanders, 9831, Belgium
    09-282–3391

    Known For

    • A "luxury" afternoon menu that changes with the seasons
    • Great service
    • The quality of its sole

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed. and Thurs. No dinner Tues. and Fri.
  • 7. Fleems

    $$$$

    The hot new restaurant in town comes fresh from the success of its former pop-up (Heems) and has now settled on Brusselsestraat. It's a small, intimate joint with a great secluded terrace at the rear. Its set menus can be matched with wines or beers, and the cooking is simply inspired, using local produce and unexpected combinations of simple ingredients to often dazzling effect. A future star. 

    Brusselsestraat 72, Dendermonde, Flanders, 9200, Belgium
    0468-248--509

    Known For

    • A likeable terrace at the rear will be nice in summer
    • Beer pairing is a brilliant alternative to the usual wine
    • Talented chefs using their full imagination

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.
  • 8. Jan van den Bon

    $$$$

    This distinguished restaurant is a local favorite for French and classic Belgian dishes, particularly seafood and seasonal specialties. Its tasting menus are on the steep side, but the service is uniformly excellent and the presentation borders on the inspired. Sip your aperitif on the terrace overlooking the garden, which also supplies the herbs used in the kitchen. After 23 years, it might have finally lost its Michelin star in 2019, but the menu has lost none of its vigor.

    Koning Leopold II Laan 43, Ghent, Flanders, 9000, Belgium
    09-221–9085

    Known For

    • Gallic gastronomy with no little flair—and a fine garden
    • An elegant setting in a traditional old town house
    • Good service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat., Reservations essential, Jacket and tie
  • 9. L’Homard Bizarre

    $$$$

    As its name (The Weird Lobster) suggests, lobster is the specialty here, prepared every which way on special menus that recur on Thursday and Sunday. Otherwise, go for the more local fare. The game is especially good, with dishes such as saddle of hare or pheasant embracing its surroundings but giving dishes an elegant twist. 

    Kortrijksesteenweg 259, Sint-Martins-Latem, Flanders, 9830, Belgium
    09-281--2922

    Known For

    • Knowing its way around a lobster
    • Country cooking elevated to fine dining
    • A pretty garden terrace at the back

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.–Wed.
  • 10. Margaretha's

    $$$$

    You enter Margaretha's through one of the oldest buildings still standing in Oudenaarde, a Romanesque patrician tower built in the 12th century. It has a rich past: this was once an almshouse, then a school, and it takes its name from Margarita de Palma, Charles V's illegitimate daughter who went on to rule the Netherlands and was said to have lived here at one point. So much history and yet it doesn't detract from a dining experience that rarely lets up, from a fine selection of game to a series of set menus that always surprises.   

    Markt 40, Oudenaarde, Flanders, 9700, Belgium
    055-311--001

    Known For

    • A cultured menu with plenty of delights
    • The service is top rate
    • A historic setting for a fine meal

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. and Wed.
  • 11. Roots

    $$$$

    This charming restaurant is located amid the cobbled alleys of Patershol, an area that has transformed from an early-20th-century slum into one of the hippest locations in the city. Inside, Roots is all rather minimalist: just bare wood, stark tiles, and an open kitchen to stare at. The food is the star here, though a fine walled garden is located to the rear. Soak up the creativity via lunch (€35/€48) and dinner (€65/€80) set menus, which make the most of chef Kim Devisschere's ability to turn meat, fish, and some of the lesser-seen Flemish vegetables into culinary spectacles. The menus only list the ingredients, and each dish arrives something of a surprise, but therein lies the fun. Booking is essential, as this is one of the tougher places to get a table. 

    Vrouwebroersstraat 5, Ghent, Flanders, 9000, Belgium
    09-310--6773

    Known For

    • Creative cooking with good local produce
    • The walled terrace garden is a grand spot on a warm evening
    • It's great to watch the open kitchen at work

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed weekends. No dinner Wed., Reservations essential
  • 12. Table d'Amis

    $$$$

    When Table D'Amis closed in 2018, art historian-turned-chef Matthieu Beudaert handed in Kortrijk's only Michelin star and decided to go back to basics: gastronomic food at a decent price. It has recently reopened and is no less inspired, with dishes such as breaded veal sweetbreads smoked on a tobacco leaf hinting at the daring below the surface. Set menus start from €62, though dishes can be ordered à la carte. 

    Sint-Maartenskerkhof 8, Kortrijk, Flanders, 8500, Belgium
    0480-610--718

    Known For

    • Wonderfully creative cooking
    • Informal fine dining
    • A menu full of surprises

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Tues.
  • 13. Va et Vient

    $$$$

    Chef Matthias Speybrouck got his start working under mercurial Belgian chef Kobe Desramaults, and he learned well. His modern riverside restaurant has a rather industrial vibe, but it fits the "rough and refined" ethos of the menu, where he digs deep into local produce to create some surprising combinations. 

    Handboogstraat 20, Kortrijk, Flanders, 8500, Belgium
    056-204--517

    Known For

    • Great setting along the Leie riverbank
    • Decent-value set menus at €45
    • Nice terrace in summer

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.

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