Few places remain in the Caribbean where you can see what captivated the conquistadors. Strolling through Old San Juan's crimson-colored Puerta de San Juan, one of the five original gateways into the city, you will find yourself on the same cobblestone streets walked by Juan Ponce de León. This is the magical part of San Juan. The rest of the city is less magical, but with the renovation of some older resorts already in the works, it's certainly beginning to shake off a slightly down-at the-heels feel that it's had since the late 1980s. Come to San Juan if you want to sample the city's excellent restaurants or shop in myriad designer boutiques, especially for clothing by Puerto Rico's more daring designers. And, naturally, choose San Juan if you want to party; there are few places in the Caribbean that have as varied and dynamic a nightlife scene as you'll find here. The city's beaches are nice, but you'll have to look further afield to find the island's finest. Don't choose San Juan if you want a quiet, get-away-from-it-all experience; the city's resorts, for all their good points, aren't really the best places if you want to while away your hours in solitude.