The simple, off-the-grid thatched palapa seems to exhale with a breezy, unbothered joviality; bring your camera: the vistas of jungle and endless sea make you feel as if you're at the edge of the world. Managers Rosa and Tomeu make you feel like regulars. More creative than the standard fish in coconut sauce, there's calamari in its own ink, seafood paella, grilled spiny lobster, or a stir-fry with squid or conch. Vegetarians are well-accommodated, too. Interestingly, you have to call in advance if you want fresh fish or lobster. Remote, it's a rough ride up coastal dirt roads, but Calle La Caleta is not as bad as it used to be and is now accessible with regular vehicles without the need for 4x4s. There is a pickup service at night, which we advise. Actually, you could stay overnight, as there are several cabanas (starting at $30) and a completely renovated tree house.