Havana

To see La Habana Vieja and its many colonial palaces and Baroque churches at their best, plan to tour on foot. Although you could spend days here, you can easily see the highlights of Old Havana in two days. Make the fortresses across the bay a side trip from La Habana Vieja, and save the sights farther east, as well as the Playas del Este, for another day. Centro Habana also has many historic sights, and it is here that you will truly see the sprawling everyday life of Cubans. The Capitolio, Chinatown, and Parque Central are must-sees for tourists, but a stroll in the southern reaches of Centro Habana and its dusty streets are an eye-opener. A tour of Centro Habana can begin and end at the Hotel Inglaterra and Parque Central. El Malecón, from La Punta all the way to La Chorrera fortress at the mouth of Río Almendares (Almendares River), is an important part of Havana life and a good hour's hike.

Vedado stretches from Calzada de Infanta to the Río Almendares and is difficult to explore on foot. Taxi rides to objectives such as the Museo de Artes Decorativos or UNEAC can be combined with strolls through leafy streets filled with stately mansions. Miramar, which stretches southwest across the Río Almendares, was the residential area for wealthy Habaneros and foreigners before the Revolution. A tour of its wide, tree-lined avenues is best made by car.

The streets in La Habana Vieja and Centro Habana have been, in European fashion, given such poetic names as Amargura (Bitterness), Esperanza (Hope), or Ánimas (Souls). Note that some streets have pre- and postrevolutionary names; both are often cited on maps. Throughout the city, addresses are also frequently cited as street names with numbers and/or locations, as in: "Calle Concordia, e/Calle Gervasio y Calle Escobar" or "Calle de los Oficios 53, esquina de Obrapía." It's helpful to know the following terms and abbreviations: "e/" (entre) is “between”; esquina de (abbreviated "esq. de") is "corner of"; and y is "and."

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  • 1. Catedral de La Habana

    La Habana Vieja

    Cuba's Cervantes Prize–winning novelist, Alejo Carpentier, may have borrowed from St. Augustine when he described the city's cathedral as "music made into stone," but the words—like the bells in the structure they describe—ring true and clear. Work on the church was begun by the Jesuits in 1748, who weren't around to see it finished in 1777. (King Carlos III of Spain expelled the Jesuits from the New World in 1767). The facade is simultaneously intimate and imposing, and one of the two towers is visibly larger, creating an asymmetry that seems totally natural. The two bells in the taller, thicker tower are said to have been cast with gold and silver mixed into the bronze, giving them their sweet tone. In Our Man in Havana, Graham Greene describes the statue of Columbus that once stood in the square as looking "as though it had been formed through the centuries underwater, like a coral reef, by the action of insects." This is, in fact, exactly the case: coral, cut and hauled from the edge of the sea by slaves, was used to build many of Havana's churches. Look carefully and you'll see fossils of marine flora and fauna in the stone of the cathedral.

    Plaza de la Catedral, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7861–7771

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Free, Weekdays 10–4:30, Sat. 10–2, Sun. 9–12:30; Mass weekdays 6 pm, Sat. 3 pm, Sun. 10:30 am
  • 2. El Malecón

    Havana's famous Malecón, sheltered by a sea wall, runs west for 7 km (4 miles) from La Punta (where it's also known as Avenida Antonio Maceo) and the harbor's entrance to the Santa Dorotea de Luna de la Chorrera fortress, near the mouth of the Río Almendares. Although it was designed in 1857 by a Cuban engineer, it wasn't built until 1902, thanks, in part, to the American capital that flowed to the island after the Spanish-American War. Once an opulent promenade flanked by brightly painted houses, the Malecón today is dark and dilapidated, the houses crumbling, and the wide limestone walkway broken and eroded. Yet it still has its charms. As it faces north, it offers spectacular views of both sunrise and sunset—perhaps accounting for the belief that there's not a single habanero who hasn't professed love eternal here at one time or another. Crashing waves and the rainbows created from their spray and the sun adds to the Malecón's magic. As you walk, look for rectangles carved into the stone. These were once (and are still used as) sea baths, which fill at high tide and allowed people to splash about, safe from both currents and sharks. Just west of the Hotel Nacional you'll come to Monumento alMaine, honoring the 260 American sailors killed in the 1898 explosion of that U.S. warship, which was visiting Havana in a display of American might. The event lead to what the United States calls the Spanish-American War (for Cubans this was the final stage of their War of Independence, which began in 1868) followed by a period of heavy U.S. involvement in Cuban affairs. A plaque dedicated by the Castro government here reads: "To the victims of the Maine, who were sacrificed by imperialist voracity in its eagerness to seize the island of Cuba."

    Havana, La Habana, Cuba
  • 3. Finca Vigía

    Even those convinced that they've outgrown their thirst for Hemingway will feel a flutter of youthful romanticism on a visit to Finca Vigía (Lookout Farm), the American Nobel Prize–winner's home from 1939 to 1961. The excellent guides will show you his weight charts—faithfully kept on the bathroom wall and never varying much from 242.5 pounds—a first edition of Kenneth Tynan's Bull Fever by the toilet; the lizard preserved in formaldehyde and honored for having "died well" in a battle with one of Hemingway's five-dozen cats; the pool where Ava Gardner swam naked; Hemingway's favorite chair (ask about what happened to people who dared sit in it); his sleek powerboat, El Pilar; and much, much more.

    San Francisco de Paula, Camagüey, Cuba
    7891–0809

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$5, Mon.–Sat. 10–4, Sun. 9–1
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  • 4. Museo de la Revolución

    Centro Habana

    Batista's Palacio Presidencial, unsuccessfully attacked by students on March 13, 1957, was converted into the Museum of the Revolution after Castro's 1959 victory. The Russian tank outside was used by Cuban forces to repel the Bay of Pigs invasion. The marble staircase and the magnificent upstairs ceiling mural tell one story, while galleries with displays of items from colonial times to the present tell another; the contrast is effective. Photographs of tortured revolutionaries, maps tracing the progress of the war, the bloodstained uniforms of rebels who fell in the 1953 Santiago de Cuba Moncada Barracks attack, and photos of Fidel and Che complete a comprehensive tour of the Revolution's history. Don't miss Cretin's Corner for a look at some familiar faces.

    Calle Refugio 1, Havana, La Habana, 10200, Cuba
    7862–4098

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$8 for combined ticket to museum and Memorial Granma, Daily 9–5
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  • 5. Museo del Ron Havana Club

    La Habana Vieja

    Housed in an elegant 18th-century mansion, this is one of Havana's best museums. A stop here provides a look at the history of Cuba's sugar industry, as well as the insides of a rum distillery—including a model central (sugar mill) with miniature steam engines—and the craftsmen (such as the coopers, or barrel makers) who were a part of it. Your ticket includes a guided tour, rum tastings, and the opportunity to take photos. The Havana Club shop is a good place to stock up on a few bottles, while the attached bar is great for an after-tour mojito.

    Calle San Pedro 262, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7861–8051

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$7, Museum: Mon.–Thurs. 9--5:30, Fri.–Sun. 9--4.30; Havana Club Bar: Mon.--Sun. 9--9
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  • 6. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes—Colección Arte Cubano

    Centro Habana

    Havana's fine-arts museum occupies two separate buildings, each of which deserves careful exploration. The original location on Calle Trocadero, finished in 1954, occupies the site of what was once a market. Designed by Alfonso Rodríguez Pichardo, the building, a compact prism with a large central courtyard, seems to breathe light. It now contains a varied and exciting Cuban collection. The third floor has 16th- to 19th-century colonial religious paintings, portraits, landscapes, and street scenes. Rooms 3 and 4 follow the 1927–38 beginning and consolidation of Cuban modern art. On the second floor, in rooms 5–8, are works by artists from the 1950s to 1990s. The power, color density, and intensity of Cuban painting is extraordinary, as is the rush through 500 years of history—from Armando Menocal's chained Columbus embarking for Spain in 1493 to Servando Cabrera Moreno's Guernica-like depiction of the 1961 Bay of Pigs invasion and beyond to more contemporary pieces. Paintings to look for include the sensual El Rapto de las Mulatas by Carlos Enríquez, Gitana Tropical (sometimes known as the "Cuban Mona Lisa") by Victor Manuel Garcia, Maternidad by Wifredo Lam, Recibido en Mal Estado by Zaida del Río, and Mundo Sonádo by Tonel (Antonio Eligio Fernandez).

    Calle Trocadero, e/Av. de la Bélgica (Misiones/Egido/Monserrate) y Calle Agramonte (Zulueta), Havana, La Habana, 10200, Cuba
    7863–2657

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$5; CUC$8 for combined ticket with Colección Arte Universal, Tues.–Sat. 9–5, Sun. 10–2, Closed Mon.
  • 7. Plaza de la Revolución

    Vedado

    This plaza in upper Vedado may seem grandiose and soulless, but it has several monuments with a lot of heart. Since the Revolutionary victory of 1959, it has been the official parade ground for events ranging from the annual May Day celebration to masses celebrated by Popes John Paul, Benedict, and Francis. A political, administrative, and cultural hub, the square is surrounded by army, police, Communist Party, and other ministries. In better days Castro's whereabouts, which were always a mystery, included visits to these government centers, though he was just as likely to be coaching the national baseball team, resting in one of his many secret Havana residences, or off fishing on the Península de Zapata. It's hard to miss the giant etching of Che Guevara on the Ministerio del Interior (Ministry of the Interior) at the plaza's northwestern edge. It bears the words "hasta la victoria siempre" ("always onward to victory"). On the square's western edge, across Avenida Carlos Manual de Céspedes, is the Teatro Nacional, Cuba's most important theater. Other highlights of the Plaza de la Revolución include the Museo Memorial José Martí at its center, the Museo Postal Cubano around the corner from the Ministerio de Comunicaciones (Communications Ministry), and along Plaza de la Revolución's northern edge is the Biblioteca Nacional José Martí, Cuba's largest library.

    Avenida Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
  • 8. Acuario Nacional

    Miramar

    At the national aquarium, you can learn about many of Cuba's 900 species of fish. Dolphin shows are very popular, and there are also sea lion shows. At the time of writing, the aquarium was open, but undergoing refurbishment.

    Calle 60 y Av. 1, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
    7203–6401

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$1 adults, CUC$7 kids, Tues.–Sun. 10–6; dolphin shows at 11, 3, and 5; sea lion shows are at noon and 4
  • 9. Antigua Iglesia de San Francisco de Paula

    La Habana Vieja

    The restored San Francisco de Paula Church stands in a plaza at the edge of the harbor at the southern end of the Alameda de Paula. Built between 1730 and 1745 as part of what was then a hospital for women, its facade is described as "pre-Churrigueresque," meaning that it was done prior to the popular exuberant baroque style for which Spanish architect José Benito Churriguera is known. The church fell into disrepair in the 20th century, when the adjoining hospital was moved far from the uproarious port. Restored in early 2001 and filled with Cuban art (including a series of crosses by prominent contemporary painter Zaida del Río), the church is now often used as a concert hall and art gallery.

    esq. de Calle San Ignacio, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7860–4210

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Free, Mon.–Sat. 9–5, Sun. 9–1
  • 10. Asociación Cultural Yoruba de Cuba

    Centro Habana

    The Asociación Cultural Yoruba provides a close look at African culture. The bigger-than-life orishas (Yoruban deities) on display are all identified and explained in English, French, and Spanish. It is also a place where people still come to pray and give offerings to the various orishas. Depending on the day, you may even get to witness a Santería ceremony or ritual here, which the public are welcome to attend. The association is near the Parque de la Fraternidad Americana, a shady space around a sacred ceiba tree planted in 1928 with soil from each of the free countries of the Americas.

    Paseo de Martí (Prado) 615, Havana, La Habana, 10200, Cuba
    7863–7415

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$5, Daily 9–5
  • 11. Bacuranao

    Beach

    Lying 18 km (11 miles) east of Havana, this tranquil crescent of sand surrounding a quiet lagoon is the first you'll come to along the Playas del Este. This is about as natural as they come, with a scattering of palm trees for shade and a few locals who will offer to catch some fresh fish and cook it for you or scale a tree to get you a coconut. Coral reefs and an 18th-century Spanish galleon lie far off shore, meaning that you'll occasionally see scuba-diving excursions here, too. Look for the Villa Bacuranao, hidden by rocks and trees, at one end of the beach, a quiet two-star resort with a swimming pool, restaurant, and inexpensive basic rooms to rent. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: solitude; swimming.

    Via Blanca, Bacuranao, Playas del Este , Playa Tarará, Cuba
  • 12. Biblioteca Nacional José Martí

    Vedado

    Along Plaza de la Revolución's northern edge is the National Library, which, with 2 million volumes, is Cuba's largest. You must call in advance to book tours of the building.

    Havana, La Habana, Cuba
    7811–9442

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Mon. 8:15–1:30, Tues.–Fri. 8:15–6:15, Sat. 8:15–4:30
  • 13. Cafe O'Reilly

    La Habana Vieja

    This newly opened café, housed in a beautiful old colonial building, complete with original tiles, is quickly becoming one of Havana's best coffeehouses. The rich coffee aromas waft halfway down the street, and inside the sound of bubbling percolators is complemented by cloth coffee bags, old coffee trade maps, and photos of coffee farmers covering the walls. As well as coffee anyway you want, the café also serves snacks such as sandwiches, ice creams, and salads. This is a great place to buy some freshly roasted Cuban coffee beans to take back home with you.

    Calle O'Reilly 203, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
  • 14. Callejón de Hamel

    This neighborhood project, directed by and featuring the painting (note the vivid street murals) and sculpture of Salvador Gonzalez Escalona, is an ongoing Afro-Cuban educational and artistic event. All the quirky sculptures you see here have been made out of recycled materials---look for the story of Saint-Exupéry's Little Prince, which has been painted into an array of bathtubs at the far end of the street. Afro-Cuban music groups Rumbo Morena and Eroso Obba perform here every Sunday from noon to 3 pm, enthusiastically watched by locals and tourists alike.

    Off Calle San Lázaro, e/Calle Ánimas and Calle Soledad, Centro Habana, Havana, La Habana, 10200, Cuba
    7878–1661

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Free
  • 15. Camera Obscura

    La Habana Vieja

    On the northwestern corner of Plaza Vieja, located on the top floor of the early 20th-century Villa Gómez, you'll find the city's fascinating Camera Obscura, gifted to Cuba by Spain's Council of Cadiz. Housed in a darkened room, with a small hole in the ceiling, visitors can watch the real-life scenes on and around Plaza Vieja being played out in a large dish right in front of them. The camera is the only one of its kind in Latin America and the Caribbean and one of only 74 in the world today.

    Calle Mercaderes, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7866–4461

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$2, Daily 9–5:30
  • 16. Capitolio

    Centro Habana

    Modeled after Washington, D.C.'s domed Capitol building, Havana's Capitolio was built in 1929 and is rich in iconography. The statue to the left of the entrance stairway represents Work (considered a masculine ethic); that on the right is of Virtue (a perceived feminine attribute). Some 30 bas-reliefs on the main door depict events in Cuba's history. The giant main hall is called the Salon de los Pasos Perdidos (Hall of the Lost Steps), allegedly for the fading reverberations of footsteps. It's dominated by the gigantic bronze statue of Minerva (once known as La República). Set into the floor at her feet is a diamond (presently a replica) from which all distances on the island are measured. The former Senate Chamber is at the end of the right-hand corridor; the one-time Chamber of Representatives is on the far left. The on-site restaurant, El Salón de los Escudos, serves a reasonable lunch; the Café Mirador offers lighter fare. The building seems to be undergoing perpetual renovation.

    Paseo de Martí (Prado), Havana, La Habana, 10200, Cuba
    7860–3411

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Free
  • 17. Casa de Africa

    La Habana Vieja

    This museum showcases a collection of art and various cultural artifacts from all over Africa. There's also a room dedicated to the orishas (Yoruban deities) upstairs. Look out for the interesting collection of African instruments upstairs. Live Afro-Cuban music is played here from 3 to 5 pm on the first Saturday and second Tuesday of every month.

    Calle Obrapia 157, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
    7861–5798

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Free, Tues.–Sat. 9:30–5, Sun. 9:30–1
  • 18. Casa de Asia

    La Habana Vieja

    Housing an array of cultural treasures from all over Asia, this two-floor museum is well worth a look. It showcases a collection of exquisite Japanese kimonos, intricately carved Chinese cabinets, Cantonese porcelain from the 18th and 19th centuries, as well as various stone statues, ancient swords, and instruments.

    Calle Mercaderes 111, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Free, Tues.–Sat. 9:30–5:30, Sun. 9:30–1
  • 19. Casa de la Obrapía

    La Habana Vieja

    This house is named for the obra pía (pious work) with orphans that was carried out here in colonial times. Its elaborately wrought Baroque doorway is thought to have been carved in Cádiz around 1686. The architecture of the interior patio is based on North African fondouks (inns) and, later, of Spanish corralas (patios). There's much to see here: arches of different sizes and shapes, vases decorated with paintings by Spanish painter Ignacio Zuloaga, as well as a collection of old sewing machines and needlecraft paraphernalia. The Alejo Carpentier artifacts (including the car he used in Paris) are still there, but locked up in a special room that you must get permission ahead of time to see.

    Calle Obrapía 158, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
    7861–3097

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Free, Tues.–Sat. 9:30–5, Sun. 9:30–12:30
  • 20. Casa Natal de José Martí

    La Habana Vieja

    On January 28, 1853, Cuba's padre de la patria (father of the nation), José Martí, was born of Spanish parents in this humble house. When a child he prophetically announced, "Five generations of slaves must be followed by a generation of martyrs." At age 15 he wrote a newspaper piece judged treasonous by the Spanish governors, and after time in a Havana prison followed by exile to the Isla de la Juventud, he was exiled to Spain, where he later studied law. Martí then spent 14 years in the United States, working as a newspaper reporter. Three volumes of poetry and several books of essays established him as the most brilliant Latin American writer and political analyst of his day. Martí's words stirred both moral and financial support for Cuban independence. In mid-April 1895, as part of a revolutionary plan that was months in the making, Martí joined General Máximo Gómez on Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic). The two set out for Eastern Cuba, where General Antonio Maceo awaited them. A month later, on May 19, 1895, Martí became one of the first casualties of the Second War of Independence, when he charged, mounted on a white steed, into a Spanish ambush during a battle at Dos Ríos. His lyrics in "Guantanamera," are premonitory: "Que no me entierran en lo oscuro / a morir como un traidor / yo soy bueno y como bueno / moriré de cara al sol." ("May they not bury me in darkness / to die like a traitor / I am good, and as a good man / I will die facing the sun.") The memorabilia in this museum range from locks of the young Martí's hair to the shackle he wore around his ankle as a prisoner to letters, books, and poetry. Look for the martyr's spurs and ammunition belt, a rare 1893 photograph of Martí with Máximo Gómez in New York, and another of the Manhattan office on Front Street where he worked on the Cuban independent newspaper Patria.

    Calle Leonor Pérez (Paula) 314, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
    7861–3778

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: CUC$1.50, Tues.–Sat. 9:30–5, Sun. 9:30–1

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