Inaugurated in 1875, this is cuba's oldest hotel; Graham Greene stayed here when he last visited Havana in 1958. Though the interior seems gloomy at first, give your eyes a chance to adjust because there's much to admire here: photographs of old Havana, intricate Andalusian tiles, the shield of Spain's Catholic Kings behind the bar. Rooms are gloomy as well, but they seem more "real" than those in the glass-and-steel high-rises. The ground-floor Gran Café del Louvre is
a great people-watching spot, the roof-terrace restaurant has nonpareil views, and all the sights of Centro and La Habana Vieja are a short walk away.