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Shortages of raw materials and a bureaucratized approach to food preparation in state-owned restaurants have produced many a mediocre meal, but with the privateer restaurants leading the way, Cuban cuisine is coming back. For the best cooking in Havana, seek out the paladares (privately owned establishments; the name, which lite
Shortages of raw materials and a bureaucratized approach to food preparation in state-owned restaurants have produced many a mediocre meal, but with the privateer restaurants leading the way, Cuban cuisine is coming back. For the best cooking in Havana, seek out the pal
Shortages of raw materials and a bureaucratized approach to food preparation in state-owned restaurants have produced ma
Shortages of raw materials and a bureaucratized approach to food preparation in state-owned restaurants have produced many a mediocre meal, but with the privateer restaurants leading the way, Cuban cuisine is coming back. For the best cooking in Havana, seek out the paladares (privately owned establishments; the name, which literally means "palates," was cribbed from a popular Brazilian soap opera in which the heroine makes her fortune with a roadside restaurant named "El Paladar de Raquel"). Call ahead to reserve a table if you go to a paladar, and never believe a taxi driver who swears to you that the place is closed; he gets a commission for taking you to the place he is flacking for.
Ring the bell of this cozy paladar to be let into a series of intimate rooms packed with an eclectic array of antique clocks, vintage musical instruments, paintings, lamps, and vases. For something typically Cuban with a gourmet twist, go for the ropa vieja (shredded beef in Creole sauce) with crunchy sweet potatoes. If you're looking for something a little more international, try the sirloin steak with blue cheese sauce or one of the excellent pasta dishes. Of the house specialties, the flaky tuna and vegetable tartlet starter or the lemon pie for dessert are particularly good.
Linea 753, e/ Paseo y Calle 2, Havana, La Habana, 10400, Cuba
In a small residential area on top of a hill in Guanabo, this charming paladar is the best in town. What's more is that it actually does feel like you're dining in someone's home, unlike some of Havana's more modern paladares. Here you'll dine on modern Cuban classics and an excellent array of fresh seafood dishes, in a pretty garden, filled with flowers, grape vines, and trickling fountains. Try the grilled fish with salsa verde. There are no vegetarian choices on the menu, but if you ask, they'll make you up a giant parilla de verduras (grilled platter of mixed vegetables), straight from the barbecue. If you like it, you can even opt to stay here, as they also have a couple of rooms for rent upstairs.
Calle Quebec 115, e/Calles 476 y 478, Havana, La Habana, 10900, Cuba
Also known as Casa de la Parra (House of the Grape Arbor), this simple, yet elegant restaurant only specializes in typical criollo and Cuban food, despite the name. Sit inside under old wooden beams or outside on the patio under shady grape vines while dining on the classic menu that includes such dishes as morros y cristianos (rice and beans), boniato cocido (boiled yam), various grilled meats, and fish and vegetable fried rice. Although the price is right, make sure to check your bill before paying as sometimes they overcharge.
Calle Brasil (Teniente Rey) y Calle Bernaza, Havana, La Habana, Cuba
Those on a budget should try this lovely little place located in the gardens of Café del Oriente, which is just around the corner. A favorite with locals on their lunch break, tables are set among the tropical plants and trickling fountains, and it's always packed. Typical Cuban fare is served, as well as an array of filled baguettes. Portions are big and you won't pay more than CUC$5 for any of the main meals.
Calle Amargura 12, e/Oficios y Mercaderes, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
Although prices are on the high side, the romantic location makes them worth it. Standing at the foot of El Morro, this restaurant offers splendid views over Havana and is a good spot for dinner after the cañonazo at La Cabaña. Your best bet is lobster; kept alive in an on-site tank, it's guaranteed to be fresh.
Located in a quiet alley near the waterfront, this cozy and intimate paladar serves up tasty Cuban dishes with an emphasis on seafood. Seated under old wooden beams and surrounded by colorful antique lamps, you can sit back and enjoy the rhythms of the house band Legendario Havana. Try the Cuban tamales or malanga fritters with honey to start, followed by the giant mermaid lobster or fresh catch of the day. Like most places in Havana, you won't find many vegetarian options on the menu, but the staff here will be happy to cook up something special for you if you ask (and it won't just be an omelet or rice and beans).
Calle Obispo 1 e/San Pedro y Baratillo, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
Located at the rear of the quiet and elegant Hotel Marqués de Prado Ameno, the decor here is simple and understated and dishes range from alluring fare like grilled seafood, langoustines, or filet mignon to the simple, homey stuffed chicken and vegetables that Cubans seem to favor. The best options are its two signature dishes—cider chicken or honey pork. Desserts are uninspiring, including such standbys as cheesecake, chocolate cake, and ice cream, but try the strong but tasty Café Cubano to top off your meal.
Calle O'Reilly 253, e/Cuba y Aguiar, Havana, La Habana, 10100, Cuba
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