5 Best Sights in Inagua, The Southern Out Islands

Nothing quite prepares you for your first glimpse of the West Indian flamingos that nest in Inagua National Park: brilliant crimson-pink, up to 5 feet tall, with black-tipped wings. A dozen flamingos suddenly fly across a pond, intermixed with fantastic pink roseate spoonbills.

It's a moving sight, and because of the island's remote location, few people get to see it. By 1952, Inagua's flamingos had dwindled to about 5,000. The gorgeous birds were hunted for their meat, especially the tongue, and for their feathers. The government established the 183,740-acre wildlife sanctuary and national park in 1963, and today more than 60,000 flamingos nest on the island, the world's largest breeding colony of West Indian flamingos. The birds thrive in the many salt ponds (owned by the Morton Salt Company) that supply their favorite meal—brine shrimp. Bird-watchers also flock here to spy gull-billed terns, egrets, herons, burrowing owls, pintail ducks, sandpipers, and snowy plovers—more than 130 species in all. The Inaguan lyretail is one of the world's most recently announced species. Wild boar and feral donkeys left here after a brief French occupation in 1749 are harder to see.

To make reservations, you must contact The Bahamas National Trust's office ( 242/393–1317) or Warden Henry Nixon ( 242/395–0856). All visits to the park are by special arrangement.

In addition to visiting this remove beach to chill in solitude, Collin's Beach is an ideal location to snorkel Inagua's offshore reefs. Casuarina trees provide shade in some areas, but that is about all you will find on this beach besides the sandy coastline and mesmerizing turquoise waters. It is about ten miles north of Matthew Town, so be sure to bring sunscreen, bug spray, umbrellas or portable shade, lots of fluids in a cooler, and some beach toys and snorkeling gear. Every year, a few luxury cruises make winter stops in Inagua and bring their guests to Collin's Beach. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; snorkeling.

The Erickson Public Library and Museum is a welcome part of the community, particularly the surprisingly well-stocked, well-equipped library. The Morton Company built the complex in the former home of the Erickson family, who came to Inagua in 1934 to run the salt giant. The museum displays the island's history, to which the company is inextricably tied. The posted hours are not always that regular. The Bahamas National Trust office and the office of Inagua National Park are also here, but hours are unpredictable.

From Southwest Point, a mile or so south of Matthew Town, you can see Cuba's coast—slightly more than 50 miles west—on a clear day from atop Great Inagua Lighthouse, built in 1870 in response to the number of shipwrecks on offshore reefs. It's a grueling climb—the last 10 feet are on a ladder—but the view of the rugged coastline and Matthew Town is worth the effort. Look to the west to see the hazy mountains of Cuba. Be sure to sign the guest book just inside the door to the lighthouse.

Marveling at the salt process lures few visitors to Inagua, but the Morton Salt Company is omnipresent on the island: it has more than 47 square miles of crystallizing ponds and reservoirs. More than a million tons of salt are produced every year for such industrial uses as salting icy streets. (More is produced when the northeastern United States has a bad winter.) Even if you decide not to tour the facility, you can see the mountains of salt, locally called the Salt Alps, glistening in the sun from the plane. In an unusual case of industry assisting its environment, the crystallizers provide a feeding ground for the flamingos. As the water evaporates, the concentration of brine shrimp in the ponds increases, and the flamingos feed on these animals. Free tours are available by reservation at the salt plant in Matthew Town.