8 Best Sights in The Other Islands, French Polynesia

Hiva Oa's main settlement is Atuona, which lies at the head of the Bay of Traitors. The main attractions are those associated with artist Paul Gauguin—the museum and his grave.

The village of Hane, protected on the east by Motu Hane, also has a little museum dedicated to the sea, with a display of canoes through the ages, paddles, and many other objects. The oldest archeological site so far discovered in the Marquesas, Haíatuatua, is also here. It has been dated to between AD 250 and 300.

More than half the people live in the town of Mataura on the northern coast, about 1.5 km (1 mi) east of the wharf. You'll find the town hall, police station, shops, and a small market in the village, though in truth there is little for the tourist to buy.

About 500 people live on the island in two villages: Omoa, which has a simple but beautiful Catholic church, and the even smaller Hanavave. Many of the inhabitants carry dramatic tattoos in the local tradition and proudly display them to visitors. The islanders are legendary for their generosity and friendship, and if necessary it's perhaps best to repay this generosity with gifts rather than cash.

Only 4.8 km (3 mi) of sea separate the villages but land access is by a 16-km (10-mi) narrow path that winds over the mountains. Walking this can take around four to five hours—getting around is not an easy option.

The village of Puamau is east of Atuona; the journey takes 2½ hours by 4WD over a mountain trail that crosses the island, passing through the island's airport, the north shore, and the villages of Hanapaaoa and Nahoe. Puamau is overshadowed by a circle of high cliffs and is home to the Pekekea historical site which consists of the tomb of Queen Vahinetitoiani that's protected by two gigantic "tiki"—Mani and Pauto. Higher up the trail sits one of the most important archaeological sites in the Marquesas: Iipona, a temple site with the largest stone carving found outside of Easter Island. The site is guarded by a 7-foot-tall (2 meter) tiki that's known as 'Takai', the valley's namesake. Takai' is accompanied by two smaller tiki: Tauatepepe on the right and Pepetamuimui to the left. There are also many tiki heads displayed about the paepae, and on one of the platforms there is also the striking statue of Makali Taua Pepe, representing a woman giving birth to a creature that is half man, half goat.

Although it has no airport, the neighboring island of Tahuata—the only landing place of Spaniard Alvaro De Mendana, the first European to see the islands—can be reached by boat or helicopter and is popular with visiting yachties. Approximately 600 people live in either the village of Vaitahu, which is backed by a massive green cliff-face, or in several smaller villages around the island. Hapatoni is a delightful village by the sea, the seafront road being constructed with very old carved slabs. It can be reached by boat from Vaitahu village in about 15 minutes. There are no normal roads on the island and getting around can be difficult; horseback is the favored mode of transport. There are several lovely beaches that look tantalizing, but take precautions before taking the plunge as the dreaded nono will be there in large numbers. Petroglyphs can be seen in an inland valley and there are also relics of the fighting between the local people and the French in earlier days. Today, villagers sell carvings, paintings, and monoi (a fragrant mix of coconut and tiare flower extracts that's used as a body moisturizer).

In the shadow of towering, 2,834-foot (864 meters) Mt. Muake, this is the island's main town. Located in the center of the southern coast at the foot of deep Taiohae Bay, the town is in the center of an ancient volcanic crater, half of which has collapsed into the ocean, creating a bay. A modern administrative center complete with gendarmerie (police), it has a particularly French feel to it. Taiohae sculptors work in shops behind the village. Most of the island's banks, schools, stores, and shops are in Taiohae. The Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Marquesas is built with various rock from the six islands of the Marquesas. The wood carvings inside combine Marquesan art with religion, including a dramatic wooden pulpit.

The island's main village, Vaipae'e is a short walk from the dock at Baie de Vaipae, a narrow bay between high cliffs.

Musée Communal. The village's main attraction is the Musée Communal, the oldest museum in the Marquesas. Its collections include mortuary canoes and various decorations such as bracelets, earrings, sperm whale teeth, and adzes. Local wood-carvers work and sell their wares here. The museum is also known as the Archeological Museum of Vaipaee. 92–60–13. Free, donations welcome. Open by request only.