This Modern Australian eatery ticks all the boxes: location, service, ambience, food, and wine. Mains are divided into "sea," "earth," and "land." The tempura soft shell crab is a standout "sea" dish; a "land" selection might include confit duck leg with plum glaze; and an ever-changing "earth"list of vegetarian options might be pumpkin-almond ravioli. Small but artfully presented desserts taste as good as they look. There's also an excellent, largely Australian wine list. Prebooking is strongly recommended, especially if you want to sit outside on the spacious riverfront deck.