Trekking

In the 1960s a few intrepid people in Northern Thailand started wandering through the countryside, finding rooms at the hill-tribe villages. By 1980 tour companies were organizing guided groups and sending them off for three- to seven-day treks. The level of difficulty of a Northern Thailand trek varies: you might traverse tough, hilly terrain for several hours or travel mostly by pickup and hike just the last few miles. Days are spent walking forest trails between villages, where you can sleep overnight. Accommodations are in huts, where the bed can be a wooden platform with no mattress. Food is likely to be a bowl of sticky rice and stewed vegetables. Travel light, but be sure to wear sturdy hiking shoes and to pack a sweater. Mosquito repellent is a must.

Always use a certified guide with papers stamped by the TAT. It's important to pick one who's familiar with local dialects and who knows which villages are not overrun with tour groups. It's also imperative that you discuss the route; that way you'll know what to expect. You can usually tell whether the guide is knowledgeable and respects the villagers, but question him thoroughly about his experience before you sign up. The best way to select a tour that is right for you is to talk to other travelers. Guides come and go, and what was true six months ago may not be today. The charge for a guided trek is around B800 per day.

Try to avoid the hot months of April and May, when trekking can be sweaty work even at high altitudes. The best time of year to make for the hills is the cool, dry season, between November and March.

Trekking is more than a popular pastime in Northern Thailand—it's big business. Some of the more accessible villages, particularly those inhabited by the long-necked women of the Karen people, have consequently come to resemble theme parks. Be clear about what you expect when booking a trek. Insist on the real thing, perhaps offering a bit more to achieve it. Better still, ask your hotel to recommend a good local guide. Gather as much information as you can from those who have just returned from a trek. Their advice will save you time, money, and frustration.