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Cambodia's third-largest city was also an ancient Khmer center of culture and power on the Mekong River, and it has a pre-Angkorian temple, Wat Nokor. (Sadly, the temple itself is in a state of disrepair and the $2 entry fee unmerited.) Just outside town are the twin temple-topped hills, Phnom Pros and Phnom Srei (included in the price). Ask a local guide to explain the interesting legend
surrounding their creation. In the ecotourism village of Cheungkok, about 5 km (3 miles) south of town, you can see silk-making, carving, and other traditional crafts in progress and also buy the wares directly from villagers. All profits are reinvested in the village.
Kampong Cham can be visited in a few hours, but with Cheungkok it is an all-day trip.
Cambodia's second-largest city straddles the Sanker River in the center of the country's rice bowl. Dusty Battambang is bypassed by most visitors...