Etosha National Park

This photogenic, startlingly beautiful park takes its name—meaning Great White Place—from a vast flat depression that was a deep inland lake 12 million years ago. The white clay pan, also known as the Place of Mirages, covers nearly 25% of the park's surface.

Although it is usually dry, in a good rainy season it floods and becomes home to many waterbirds, including tens of thousands of flamingoes that feed on the blue-green algae of the pan. Although the park is never crowded with visitors like some of the East African game parks, the scenery here is no less spectacular: huge herds of animals that dot the plains and gather at the many and varied water holes, the dust devils and mirages, and terrain that changes from densely wooded thickets to wide-open spaces and from white salt-encrusted pans to blond grasslands.

The game's all here—the Big Five—large and small, fierce and gentle, beautiful and ugly. But one of Etosha's main attractions is not the numbers of animals that you can see (more than 114 species), but how easily you can see them. The game depends on the natural springs that are found all along the edges of the pan, and as the animals have grown used to drinking at these water holes for decades, they are not put off by vehicles or game-seeking visitors. On the road from the Von Lindequist Gate, the eastern entrance to Etosha, to the well-restored white-wall German colonial fort that is now Namutoni Rest Camp, look out for the smallest of all African antelopes, the Damara dik-dik. If you see a diminutive Bambi sheltering under a roadside bush, that's it. The Namutoni area and the two Okevi water holes—Klein Namutoni and Kalkheuwel—probably provide the best chances to see leopards. Don't miss the blackface impala, native to Etosha, one of the rarest of antelopes and an endangered species. Bigger and more boldly marked than its smaller cousin, the impala, you'll find it drinking in small herds at water holes all over the park.

The real secret of game-watching in the park is to settle in at one of the many water holes, most of which are on the southern edges of the pan, and wait. And wait. Each water hole has its own unique personality and characteristics. Even if the hole is small and deep, like Ombika, on the western side, you'll be amazed at what may arrive. Old Africa hands maintain that you should be up at dawn for the best sightings, but you can see marvelous game at all times of day; one visitor was lucky enough to see a leopard and her cubs come to drink at high noon. The plains, where you'll likely spot cheetahs, are also home to huge herds of zebras and wildebeests, and you may see the silhouettes of giraffes as they cross the skyline in stately procession. Watch out for herds of springbok "pronking"—pronking is when these lovely little antelopes bounce and bound high into the air as they run. Zoologists argue over the reason for this behavior. Some say it is to avoid predators, others that it is to demonstrate agility, strength, and stamina; most visitors like to believe that pronking is just for fun. Salvadora, a constant spring on the fringe of Etosha Pan near Halali, is a favorite watering point for some of these big herds. Watch out also for the stately eland, Africa's largest antelope. As big as a cow, although more streamlined and elegant, this antelope can jump higher than any other African antelope—amazing when you consider its huge size. And where there's water, there's always game. Predators, especially lions, lurk around most of the water holes looking for a meal. Plan to spend at least half a night sitting on a bench at the floodlighted Okaukuejo water hole. You really are within spitting distance of the game. Bring a book, write in your journal, or just sit while you wait. You may be amazed at the variety of animals that come down to drink: black and white rhinos, lions, jackals, and even the occasional leopard. This is a particularly good place to look out for black rhinos, which trot purposefully up to drink and in so doing scare all but the bravest of other game away. Groot Okevi waterhole, close to Namutoni, is also good for black rhinos.

Don't overlook the more than 340 dazzling varieties of birds—the crimson-breasted boubou is particularly gorgeous—and watch for ostriches running over the plains or raptors hunting silently overhead. There are many endemics, including the black-faced and bare-cheeked babblers, violet woodhoopoe (look for them in Halali camp), Rüppell's parrot, Bradfield's swift, and the white-tailed shrike (which you can see hopping happily around on the lawns at Namutoni camp).

The park is huge—22,270 square km (8,598 square mi), 300 km (186 mi) wide and 110 km (68 mi) long—and it's currently undergoing renovation of its infrastructure. The western part is still mostly undeveloped (you need a special permit to visit), so stick to the other parts; there's plenty to see. If you prefer to visit the park on one of the many safaris offered by various tour companies, make sure you choose one with an open vehicle or pop-top with few passengers—you probably don't want to find yourself in an air-conditioned 75-seater bus. That said, the best way to see the park is to drive yourself so you can stop at your leisure (don't exceed the 60 kph speed limit, and stick to marked roads). A two-wheel-drive car is fine, as the roads are good, but the higher up you sit, the better your view, so opt for the more expensive combis (vans) or 4x4s if possible. In addition to patience, you'll need drinks, snacks, field guides to the animals and birds, binoculars, and your camera. There are more than 40 water holes, with Rietfontein, Okaukuejo, Goas, Halali, Klein Namutoni, and Chudob regarded as the best for game-watching and taking pictures, but nothing is certain in the bush. Keep your eyes and ears open, and you may come across game at any time, in any place. Arm yourself with the MET map of Etosha (available in the camps), which shows the names and locations of the water holes and indicates which roads are open.

Be aware of the trees, shrubs and plants as well. Just east of Okaukuejo is the legendary Haunted or Ghost Forest where moringa trees have morphed into twisted, strange and grotesque shapes: you may feel as if you are in Snow White's forest or deep in Middle Earth.

Park Essentials

The park gates are open from sunrise to sunset, and the daily entrance fee is N$80 for foreign visitors and N$10 for a passenger vehicle with fewer than 10 seats. You pay for your vehicle entry permit at the gate and for any balance remaining on your prebooked accommodations (which include personal entry fees) at the reception area.