Lewa Downs, at the foot of Mt. Kenya, is another one of Laikipia's conservation successes. The Craig family emigrated from England in 1924 and still lives on the same 65,000-acre property, but instead of raising cattle, with the cooperation of the local communities they have returned the area to a wildlife haven. Descendants of the original family will lead you on all sorts of activities and claim that you'll see as much game here as almost anywhere else in Africa. Game drives are thrilling and action packed, but try game-spotting from a different angle—on top of a camel or from the back of a horse, or on your own two feet. (If you've got a dodgy back forget about the camel riding.) Look out for Grevy's zebra, the more elegant cousin of the regular plains zebra, and the rare aquatic sitatunga antelope. The 10 cottages are attractively furnished with a big wooden bed, hand-carved chests, comfy chairs, and en-suite bathroom. Hot water and electricity are available morning and evening; if you need to cool off, take a dip in the lovely pool. The food is wholesome and hearty with lots of organically grown herbs, vegetables, and fruit.