Café Culture

Café Culture

Sitting in a café watching life go by is one of the Marrakshis' most popular recreations in both Djemâa el Fna and Guéliz. Most of the cafés right on Djemâa el Fna have rooftop terraces with magnificent views of the square, the rooftops of Marrakesh, and, on a good day, the Atlas Mountains in the distance. The best time to take in this panorama is the magic sunset hour, when the nickname Marrakesh the Red comes into its own as the sun goes down. Watch the sky glow and wait for the teeming world below to take on its nighttime aspect while sipping mint tea out of a glass (never a mug) or Moroccan-style coffee with steamed milk. But don't just stick to the cafés around the square; there are plenty throughout the medina to duck into to relieve the heat and intensity of the souk. And the cafés in Guéliz prove a popular post-work hangout for Marrakshis to catch up on the events of the day.

Guéliz

For something authentic, greasy, and no-frills, Star Food Café (34, rue Yougoslavie. 024/43-60-66) has down-and-dirty food on the main traffic circle in Guéliz. It offers an Arabic menu (for once), French translations, and cheap prices. You can get a Moroccan breakfast for 20 DH, brochettes for 30 DH, and couscous for 40 DH-56 DH on Friday.

Every sunny afternoon stroll needs its share of ice cream, and Boule de Neige (Place Abdel moumen. 024/44-60-44) has classic flavors for 10 DH a scoop, alongside adventurous juices (including coconut, carrot, and mango) for 13 DH-18 DH.

Just opposite is the more upscale Café Les Négotiants (Corner of Ave. Mohammed V and Bd. Zerktouni. 024/43 -- 57-62). A mix of locals and tourists on elegant wicker chairs munches on the perfect snack menu, which includes chnek (pastries) for 4 DH and milioni (Moroccan pancakes).

Patisserie Hilton has petits fours. Female attendants assemble your assortment of exquisite morsels of chocolate, walnut, meringue, pistachio, and other concoctions into a take-away box, at 150 DH/kg.

Medina

Opposite the Saadian Tombs, Le Nid Cigogne (024/38-20-92) has four friendly and restful garden terraces that are more remarkable for their pretty foliage and peaceful wind chimes than the food.

In the souk, Café des Epices (75, Rahba Lakdima. 024/39-17-70. ) is a surprisingly glamorous and modern affair. It teeters over three levels, and has a great rooftop view over the spice square below. Suitably enough, it offers spiced tea and cinnamon coffee along with a good complement of drinks and light meals.

Near Djemâa el Fna, the best petit-fours stop-off is Marrakshi institution Patisserie des Princes (32, Bab Agnaou. 024/44-30-33). You can buy their fresh and deliciously gooey cakes starting at 5 AM. There's a smart salon de thé at the back.

Café Bougainville (El Mouassine. 024/44-11-11. ), to the west of the souk, serves up pizzas around an ivy-clad central courtyard, where paintings by local artists are for sale.