Fodor's Expert Review Les Halles

This local hangout, owned by Philippe Lajaunie since 1990 and benefiting from the celebrity of former executive chef, writer, and TV host Anthony Bourdain (although he has little to do with the restaurant these days), is boisterous and unpretentious—like a true French brasserie. A good bet is the steak frites; its fries are regarded by some as the best in New York. Other prime choices include crispy duck-leg confit with frisée salad, blood sausage with caramelized apples, and steak tartare, prepared table-side. Another Les Halles is in Lower Manhattan at 15 John Street.