Not long ago, the Central Highlands' Ferrocarril Central Andino laid claim to being the world's highest rail route. Then, in 2006, China's Qinghai-Tibet Railway opened, and the onetime Peruvian champ was knocked down to second place. Despite this loss of title, the trip still merits plenty of superlatives. As the train twists along the 335-km (207-mile) route through the Andes at an average elevation of 3,150 meters (10,335 feet), it regales travelers with some of the most heart-pounding vistas in the sierra. You feel the excitement as the engine chugs its way up the slim steel threads, traversing 58 bridges, endless hairpin curves, and 69 tunnels, including the 1,175-meter (3,854-foot) Galera Tunnel, which, at an altitude of 4,758 meters (15,606 feet), is the climax of the journey. As much as the sublime landscapes, however, it's the feats of engineering wizardry entailed in the railway's construction that leave you in awe.
Getting tickets to the Ferrocarril is a bit tricky: you have to plan around the train's infrequent departures if you want it to be a centerpiece of your Peruvian odyssey. The railway's website lists travel dates, with Lima-Huancayo service running just a handful of days between April and November. Trains leave Lima's Desamparados station for the 14-hour journey at 7 am, arriving in Huancayo around 9 in the evening. Snacks, lunch, and soft drinks are included in the price. You can request oxygen if you get short of breath over the high passes, and mate de coca flows freely at all hours. When making reservations, note that the decades-old clásico cars are okay in a pinch, but the newer turístico ones are much more comfortable, with reclining seats and access to the observation area and bar. In 2023, the railway suffered severe damage from El Niño–caused landslides, prompting the authorities to suspend service for six months. Operators are looking to resume the Lima-Huancayo run in 2024.