10 Best Sights in Cusco and the Sacred Valley, Peru

Built to honor the sun god, the empire’s most important deity, Qorikancha translates as "Court of Gold." Walls and altars were once plated with gold, and in the center of the complex sat a giant gold disc, positioned to reflect the sun and bathe the temple in light, while terraces were once filled with life-size gold-and-silver statues of plants and animals. Much of the wealth was removed to ransom the captive Inca ruler Atahualpa during the Spanish conquest. Eventually, the structure was passed on to the Dominicans, who constructed the church of Santo Domingo using stones from the temple and creating a jarring imperial-colonial architectural juxtaposition. An ingenious restoration lets you see how the church was built on and around the temple. In the Inca parts of the structure left exposed, estimated to be about 40% of the original temple, you can admire the mortarless masonry, earthquake-proof trapezoidal doorways, curved retaining wall, and exquisite carvings that exemplify the artistic and engineering skills of the Inca. The S/15 entrance allows you to visit the Monasterio de Santa Catalina and Qorikancha's ruins and church; a free prerecorded tour is available, but hire a guide to get the most out of the site.

Towering high above Cusco, the ruins of Sacsayhuamán are a constant reminder of the city's Inca roots. You may have to stretch your imagination to visualize how it was during Inca times—much of the site was used as a convenient source of building material by the conquering Spanish, but plenty remains to be marveled at. Huge stone blocks beg the question of how they were carved and maneuvered into position, and the masterful masonry is awe-inspiring. If you're not moved by stonework, the spectacular views over the city are just as impressive.

If the Incas designed Cusco in the shape of a puma, then Sacsayhuamán represents its ferocious head. Perhaps the most important Inca monument after Machu Picchu, Sacsayhuamán is thought to have been a religious complex during Inca times. That being said, from its strategic position high above Cusco, it was also excellently placed to defend the city, and its zigzag walls and cross-fire parapets allowed defenders to rain destruction on attackers from two sides.

Construction of the site began in the 1440s, during the reign of the Inca Pachacutec. It's thought that 20,000 workers were needed for Sacsayhuamán's construction, cutting the astonishingly massive limestone, diorite, and andesite blocks—the largest gets varying estimates of anywhere between 125 and 350 tons—rolling them to the site, and assembling them in traditional Inca style to achieve a perfect fit without mortar. The Inca Manco Cápac II, installed as puppet ruler after the conquest, retook the fortress and led a mutiny against Juan Pizarro and the Spanish in 1536. Fighting raged for 10 months in a valiant but unsuccessful bid by the Inca to reclaim their empire. History records that thousands of corpses from both sides littered the grounds and were devoured by condors at the end of the battle.

Today only the outer walls remain of the original fortress city, but even with one-fifth of the original complex left, the site is impressive. Sacsayhuamán's three original towers, used for provisions, no longer stand, though the foundations of two are still visible. The so-called Inca's Throne, the Suchuna, remains, presumably used by the emperor for reviewing troops. Today, those parade grounds, the Explanada, are the ending point for the June 24 Inti Raymi Festival of the Sun, commemorating the winter solstice and Cusco's most famous celebration.

A large map at both entrances shows the layout of Sacsayhuamán, but once you enter, signage and explanations are minimal.

You may find guides waiting outside the entrances who can give you a two-hour tour (negotiate the price ahead of time). Most are competent and knowledgeable, but depending on their perspective, you'll get a strictly historic, strictly mystical, strictly architectural, or all-of-the-above-type tour, and almost all guides work the standard joke into their spiel that the name of the site is pronounced "sexy woman." It's theoretically possible to sneak into Sacsayhuamán after hours, but lighting is poor, surfaces are uneven, and robberies have occurred at night.

Husband-and-wife team Pablo Seminario and Marilú Behar spent years developing their art into what is now known as the Seminario style—taking the valley's distinctive red clay and turning it into ceramic works using modern adaptations of ancient Indigenous techniques and designs. Their works are world-famous, with pieces seen as far off as Chicago's Field Museum. More than a shop or art gallery, here you have the ability to view the workshop where the magic happens and even speak with the artist directly. The store features decorative and utilitarian pieces, as well as others that are pure art, all of which make fabulous Peruvian gifts for yourself or others. Purchases can be shipped to any location.

Walk above town to a formidable stone structure, where massive terraces climb to a temple area honoring the sun god. Although the elaborate, walled complex was the valley's main defense against the Antis (jungle peoples) from the neighboring rainforests, the sun temple, used for astronomical observation, and the Baños de la Ñusta (ceremonial princess baths) lead archaeologists to believe that Ollantaytambo existed for more than defensive purposes, as was typical with Inca constructions. Construction, which began during the reign of Pachacutec but was never completed, incorporates rose-colored granite that was not mined in this part of the valley. The structure was the site of the greatest Inca victory over the Spanish during the wars of conquest. Manco Inca fled here in 1537 with a contingent of troops after the disastrous loss at Sacsayhuamán and routed Spanish forces under Hernando Pizarro. The victory was short-lived: Pizarro regrouped and took the fortress. If you come on your own, take the time to walk up above and through a wooden door at the back to see an Intihuatana ("hitching post of the Sun").

Dominating the Plaza de Armas, the monumental Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin (or Cusco Cathedral) is one of Cusco's grandest buildings. Built in 1550 on the site of the palace of the Inca Wiracocha and using stones looted from the nearby Inca fortress of Sacsayhuamán, the cathedral is a perfect example of the imposition of the Catholic faith on the Indigenous population. The grander the building, went the theory, the more impressive (and seductive) the faith. With soaring ceilings, baroque carvings, enormous oil paintings, and glittering gold-and-silver altars, the cathedral certainly seemed to achieve its aim.

Today, Cusco's Catedral is one of the town's star attractions, noted mainly for its amazing collection of colonial art that mixes Christian and non-Christian imagery. Entering the Catedral from the Sagrada Familia chapel, head to your right to the first nave, where you'll find the famous oil painting (reputed to be the oldest in Cusco) depicting the earthquake that rocked the town in 1650. Among the depictions of burning houses and people fleeing, you'll see a procession in the plaza. Legend has it that during the earthquake, the citizens removed a statue of Jesus on the cross from the Catedral and paraded it around the plaza—halting the quake in its tracks. This statue, now known as the Señor de los Temblores, or Lord of the Earthquakes, is Cusco's patron, and you'll find him depicted in many Cusqueñan paintings.

To see the famous statue, head across the Catedral to the other side, where in the nave and to the right of the passage connecting the Catedral to the adjoining Iglesia del Triumfo, you'll find El Señor himself. The dark color of his skin is often claimed to be a representation of the Indigenous people of Cusco; actually, it's the effect of years of candle smoke on the native materials used in its fabrication.

Those interested in the crossover between Indigenous and Catholic iconography will find lots to look at. Figures of pumas, the Inca representation of Earth, are carved on the enormous main doors, and in the adjoining Iglesia del Triumfo you'll see an Andean Christ in one of the altars flanking the exit. No one should miss the spectacular painting of the Last Supper, by the Indigenous artist Marcos Zapata, where you'll see the diners tucking into a delicious feast of vizcacha (wild chinchilla) and chicha (a corn beverage).

The cathedral's centerpieces are its massive, solid-silver altar, and the enormous 1659 María Angola bell, the largest in South America, which hangs in one of the towers and can be heard from miles away. Behind the main altar is the original wooden altar primitivo dedicated to St. Paul. The 64-seat cedar choir has rows of carved saints, popes, and bishops, all in stunning detail down to their delicately articulated hands.

If you're interested in a more in-depth look, enlist the services of a guide—you'll find them right outside the Catedral. Agree on a price before you start; it will cost a minimum of S/30 per group. Alternatively, there is a free audio guide.

Set seven blocks northeast of Plaza de Armas, this charming spot perched high within the cobblestoned pedestrian streets of hip San Blas is one of the best spots to observe Cusco from above—and try to make out its original puma shape. A great time to visit is at sunset, when the city starts turning on its lights and locals start packing the district's little bars and bistros.

For a different perspective on pre-Columbian ceramics, head to this spectacular museum, known as MAP, where art and pre-Columbian culture merge seamlessly. Twelve rooms in the 1580 Casa Cabrera, which was used as the convent of Santa Clara until the 17th century, showcase an astounding collection of pre-Columbian art from the 13th to 16th centuries, mostly in the form of carvings, ceramics, and jewelry. The art and artifacts were made by the Huari and Nazca, as well as the Inca, cultures. The stylish displays have excellent labels in Spanish and English that place the artifacts in their artistic and historical context. On the walls is commentary from European artists on South American art. Swiss artist Paul Klee wrote: "I wish I was newly born, and totally ignorant of Europe, innocent of facts and fashions, to be almost primitive." Most Cusco museums close at dark, but MAP remains open every evening. For a break after a walk around, find your way to the on-site café, one of Cusco's best restaurants (reservations are required for dinner).

With park benches, green lawns, and splendid views of the Catedral, Cusco's gorgeous colonial Plaza de Armas invites you to stay awhile. Take a seat on one of those park benches, and the world will come to you—without moving an inch, you'll be able to purchase postcards, paintings, and snacks, organize a trip to Machu Picchu, get your photograph taken, and get those dirty boots polished.

What you see today is a direct descendant of imperial Cusco's central square, which the Inca called the Haukaypata (the only name indicated on today's street signs) and which extended as far as the Plaza del Regocijo.

According to belief, this was the exact center of the Inca Empire, Tawantinsuyo, the Four Corners of the Earth. Today, continuing the tradition, it's the tourism epicenter. From the plaza you'll see the Catedral and Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús on two sides and the graceful archways of the colonial portales, or covered arcades, lining the other sides. Soft lighting bathes the plaza each evening and creates one of Cusco's iconic views. Many of the city's frequent parades (and some protests) pass through the plaza, especially on Sunday. Enjoy the views of colonial Cusco, but note that any attempt to sit on one of those inviting green lawns will prompt furious whistle-blowing from the police.

With almost as many names as colors, Rainbow Mountain, aka Vinicunca, aka Montaña de Siete Colores (Mountain of Seven Colors), is a fairly recent addition to Peru's top-attraction list. Until a few years ago, the multicolored mountain was just another snow-capped peak. When the ice and snow that covered the mountain started to melt (this might be the one time in your life that you will want to say "thank you, global warming"), the water mixed with minerals in the ground like iron sulfide, chlorite, and goethite to create the striking stripes of color. Rainbow Mountain is about three hours from Cusco by car, and requires a strenuous, high-altitude hike, so you will need to plan your visit with time to acclimatize first. Do yourself a favor and book a tour. This is a full day's adventure and hiking in high altitude can really knock you out; you'll appreciate the chance to nap on the drive back to your hotel.

Many photos of this mountain are heavily Photoshopped so do not be disappointed if the mountain is not quite as vivid as you have been led to expect. Also, dull weather conditions can dampen the effect, so try to plan around good weather if you have flexibility in your schedule.

The famed terraced Inca salt pans of Salineras, which take advantage of a natural phenomenon, are still in use: the Inca dug shallow pools into a sloped hillside. The pools filled with water, and upon evaporation, salt crystallized and could be harvested. On-site shops offer many varieties of the salt mixed with different herbs for use at home—some for culinary seasoning, others for therapeutic soaks. This stunning site is a popular day trip from Cusco; it's often paired with visits to nearby Moray and Ollantaytambo.