7 Best Bars in Santiago, Chile

At the base of Cerro Santa Lucía, partially in a former convenience store, Catedrál is one of three establishments run by the same owners, all connected but with separate entrances. Live music and a heated-in-winter upstairs terrace make the Catedrál's bar popular among the 30-plus crowd (no happy hour). Upmarket Ópera restaurant serves dishes from far-flung places, such as trout wrapped in phyllo, veal, pork, and other nicely presented oven-cooked meats. Around the corner, on the street Mercéd is the café with Belgian sandwiches, large portions of cake, soup, and most importantly, the creamiest ice cream in Santiago.

Identifiable by the leering devil on the sign, El Diablito is one of the only divey places left in Lastarria/Bellas Artes, whose decor sports spurs, stirrups, and other metal items. If you want to see what this area felt like about 10 years ago, before gentrification, this is a good spot to try. It's popular for drinks after work or late at night.

A secret meeting place during the Pinochet regime, El Rincón de las Canallas still requires a password to get in (it's Chile libre, meaning "free Chile"). The walls are painted with political statements such as "Somos todos inocentes" ("We are all innocent"). It's a two-story affair, with loads of graffiti and business cards on the walls and ceiling.

This spacious gay resto-bar welcomes everyone and is open every night except Sunday. From your table, you may spot models and other members of the "farandula" (Chilean celebrities) who frequent the place. Lunch is well priced, with dishes such as eggplant lasagna or ají de gallina (Peruvian chicken stew) available for around 9,000 pesos. It functions as a bar-restaurant until 2 am, but may close earlier on quieter nights like Monday or Tuesday.

The venerable gay disco Fausto, in business for more than 40 years, has polished wood paneling that calls to mind a gentlemen's club. It has a few different sections, a show at 2 am, and offers free admission to men during their birthday month. There are occasional theme parties and entertainers. Unlike many other gay clubs in Santiago, Fausto attracts a more solidly thirties-and-up crowd. Fausto is open until 4 am or later.

If you're itching to dance salsa or merengue plus enjoy food and a show, come to this club Thursday, Friday, or Saturday night. It starts with an all-you-can-eat buffet of Cuban specialties, and at midnight, there's a 40-minute show with sensual professional dancers. Only after that does the dance floor open to the public.

This gay-friendly small club gets full quickly, but salsa dancers say it's the best in Santiago. Classes for beginners to advanced are 3,000 pesos and run Wednesday through Friday from 8. Come alone or with a partner. Pisco cocktails from 3,500 pesos.