Il Gabbiano
Staff at this cozy but elegant candlelit house on the Circuito Chico near Llao Llao boast, "we don't serve lunch because preparing dinner takes all day." It's hard to argue after you sample the exquisite Italian menu, which changes weekly. Look for pumpkin ravioli or tortelloni stuffed with wild boar (the cooks also have a way with fresh trout). Friendly, bow-tie-wearing waiters provide an ingredient-by-ingredient explanation of each dish. The beautiful wine cellar is open to guests.