El Refugio del Pintor
The building that houses this hotel was formerly used by the painter Medardo Pantoja from Jujuy, hence the name (Refuge of the Painter) and the artwork adorning the walls. The sweeping views are timeless, but everything else has been redone with style and imagination; rooms are small yet efficient, with wooden beams, striped fabrics, and big windows. Common spaces are light and welcoming. There's a fogón (open fireplace) for cooking in the courtyard or for warming chilly feet. Look carefully for the hotel sign or you'll miss it.