El Sanjuanino
It may be cramped, crowded, and kitschy—and very warm in hot weather due to the roaring wood-fired ovens—but the empanadas are delicious. And they serve the city's best locro (corn, squash, and meat stew), lentils, and tamales, as well as delicious and iconic game dishes. Opt for the house vino served in pitchers, which is well-priced and drinkable. The waiters have fun with the crowd, and speak at least basic conversational phrases in a half dozen or more languages.