Fodor's Expert Review Poppy

Jerry Traunfeld's bright, airy restaurant on the northern end of Broadway is a feast for the senses, with funky design details, friendly staff, and a happening bar area. Start with one of the many interesting cocktails and an order of eggplant fries with sea salt and honey; then peruse the menu, which offers small plates and thali of various sizes—the idea is inspired by the Indian thali meal, in which a selection of different dishes is served in small compartments on a large platter, though the food here is mainly seasonal new American cuisine with occasional Asian accents. Dishes innovate, with curry spices and ginger meeting Wagyu beef cheeks, and nigella-poppy naan next to tomato, sage, and strawberry soup. The concept may be gimmicky but somehow each small-portioned delight seems better than the last.